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Stage 1 Question

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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 10:09 PM
  #1  
Dale Franks's Avatar
Dale Franks
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From: Escondido, CA
Default Stage 1 Question

I admit it. I'm not a gearhead. I concentrate on being a great software engineer, so I can pay great bike mechanics to do that stuff. But, that means that I don't really know what a Stage 1 upgrade entails.

Oh, sure, I know I need a high-capacity air filter/intake and exhaust pipes to match, and that the EFI needs to have a module installed to run richer with the higher airflow/lower back pressure. So, I'm not completely mechanically ignorant.

My question is, should I just go with the Screamin' Eagle parts, and just let my dealer install the Stage 1 stuff? If so, about how much will they take me for?

Or should I try to do it myself? If so, how do I go about installing the EFI mod to richen up the mix? And if I do it myself, are there better--and cheaper--pipes than the SeII's? If I use V&H or whatever, will the standard download for the EFI work with them? How will this affect my warranty?

Or should I do what I usually do: Drop the bike off at the dealership and say, "Stage 1 this f*cker!"
 
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 10:26 PM
  #2  
randy78045's Avatar
randy78045
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Laredo, TEXAS
Default RE: Stage 1 Question

I would take the bike to an independent... you will need a race tune with all you want... forget the stealership... forget screamin eagle... oh, and sign up now for your first year R.U.B. membership...
 
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 10:28 PM
  #3  
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itileman
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From: Billings, MT
Default RE: Stage 1 Question

You should be able to call the dealer, tell the service manager what you want and get a price quote. I'm a carburetor guy, so I didn't need the Stage 1 download ($149.00). I put the air filter (K&N) in myself and the dealer did the pipes = about two hours of shop time because the nut that holds the front pipe on only comes off after you move the rear brake master cylinder. The SE slip-ons I had installed had about the same back pressure as the stock pipes, but they sound a lot better and are not too loud. Because of this, a rejet was not necessary. The bike sounds great, is much faster/quicker, and there is no popping on the decel. I about dumped myself off the bike the first time I cracked open the throttle.
I have the advantage of having a really good dealership here, but any dealership does the upgrade you want day in and day out. They should be able to quote you a price immediately. Worry if they can't. Good luck
 
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 10:29 PM
  #4  
Dale Franks's Avatar
Dale Franks
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From: Escondido, CA
Default RE: Stage 1 Question

oh, and sign up now for your first year R.U.B. membership...
Oh, I signed up for that long ago.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 10:32 PM
  #5  
xp68's Avatar
xp68
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Default RE: Stage 1 Question

I just got mine back today.

I did the pipes V&H Straight Shots $220 (Easy install)

Stage one AC with race tuner done by stealership $620 I think $120 of the $620 is labor.

I'm not a gearhead either so I just took my bend over from the dealer. But now that the bike has had it's 1000 mi check up that will be my last trip to the dealer.....Indy shops from here on out.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 10:37 PM
  #6  
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itileman
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From: Billings, MT
Default RE: Stage 1 Question

One of the local Indy shops here was quoting me just under $500.00 for a 10k service. Dealer's price (posted in the service dept) was $290.00. I may be a relative newbie to the HD world, but I do own a calculator.
And no, I'm not a RUB. You can call me WUB (working urban biker-please note screen name).
 
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 11:03 PM
  #7  
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Kolni
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From: Sacramento California!!!
Default RE: Stage 1 Question

ORIGINAL: Dale Franks
Or should I do what I usually do: Drop the bike off at the dealership and say, "Stage 1 this f*cker!"
Would you let a mechanic write code or fix your computer?
 
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 11:22 PM
  #8  
Dale Franks's Avatar
Dale Franks
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From: Escondido, CA
Default RE: Stage 1 Question

Would you let a mechanic write code or fix your computer?
Ah. Well, now, that's a very cogent question isn't it? The answer, of course, is, "No.'
 
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 11:19 AM
  #9  
LANGeek's Avatar
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From: MD
Default RE: Stage 1 Question

I would suggest one of two courses of action.

1) If you know someone that does this sort of stuff on their bikes or cars see if they'll come over and work with you. The experience will enrich your bike ownership and enhance your knowledge of your scoot.

2) If you don't have the experience mentor handy drop it off somewhere. I would shop around. Go to the dealer and get a quote. See if you can tour the shop and meet the mechanics. Then go to some local bike shops and do the same. Pick the one with the best balance between cost and instills an air of competence.

In either case learning about motors in general might be a good idea. They really aren’t much different than large module based programs. Each part does a specific job just like each mod or library. Find the right library and feed in the proper values for the variables. Or, find the correct parts and dial in the correct settings. The software goes through testing and Q&A before being releases. Your motor work needs to be inspected to verify all parts are installed and tightened properly and to spec. In both cases specific and detailed knowledge is required.

One is an abstraction in a box with blinking lights. The other is a physical structure comprised of closely fitted moving parts to provide movement and to accelerate the soul.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 01:33 PM
  #10  
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troutspinner
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From: Gilbertsville, Pa
Default RE: Stage 1 Question

If you have a basic set of tools and know how to use them, I'd suggest doing it yourself. All of the parts you would need come with very good instructions and it does not take a genius to do it. Best part about it is you gain some knowledge and save some cash.

I just read a thread about a dealer installing the wrong pipes on someones bike, imagine if that happened? To pay a dealer the amount of money they want, thedowntime and thechance it was not done right, not for me! Mechanics at any dealership are always suspect, they areworking on someone elses vehicle and they are usually alloted time/money for each repair/job and there is no way they are going to put the care into your installation like you will.

I did my own stuff so to give you an example;
$260.00 V&H Shortshots (2 hours to install)
$210.00 V&H Fuel Pak (1 hour to install)
$140.00 SE-AC (1hour to install)

$610 total and 4 hours to install. Mind you, I am not a mechanic, I am a CAD guy and work on a computer all day, everyday, so we are not too different. The 4 hours is a lengthy time too, if I had to do it again I am sure I could do it in half the time but that is because I am now past that learning curve.

Food for thought.............

troutspinner
 
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