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That's an interesting answer. So using the friction zone isn't so bad after all.
On the ride like a pro video it has been a question of riders who are concerned with excessive wear and tear on the clutch. Jerry "Motorman" Palladino suggest not to use more than 2 times idle speed in other words don't over rev the engine and also don't use excessive pressure on the back brake but he goes on to suggest that after performing slow riding for some minutes, the duration I cannot make on the video, to perform a "breeze out" periodically to cool the clutch and brakes that is with the clutch fully engaged and without using the brake or simply stop riding and shut the bike off for a bit to allow it to cool down.
OP needs to buy the clutch removal tool (or make one).
An inspection (let us know, take a photo) is the answer.
Many options to replace the brass clutch with some thing else ($100 to $300) yet I'd inspect first.
Good luck.
You can get even cheaper than that.
Once you pull the clutch pack out to replace the grenade plate measure the thickness of the friction plates. I would bet at 20000 miles they are well within the service limit. My daughters were just barely within the limit at 42000 miles. And her spring plate was still ok. My friction plates were fine but the spring plate was floppy around at 24000 miles.
If the friction plates are still good you can buy 2 new steel plates and one friction plate to replace the spring plate for about $25. In my case they squealed and grabbed for a couple thousand miles but eventually smoothed out.
A late reply to my old thread . In the end I fitted an Energy One Extra Plate Clutch Kit . The Spring Plate was intact but wobbly but I've nothing to compare it to . I had a bit of squealing during the bedding in process but now it's gone away . All good so far .
Mine went last week at 28.5k. mine did come apart. So i needed the clutch kit went with se, new throw out bearing, new final drive hub (behind the clutch basket) and new clutch basket 900 bucks in parts.
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