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The dreaded spring plate problem

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Old Jan 7, 2020 | 07:59 AM
  #11  
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I got 68,000 miles out of my spring plate on my 2006 Sportster. My 2007 Sportster still had one at 30,000 miles.

Failure is influenced by many factors, how you use the clutch, city vs. highway riding, etc. If your 100-150 mile commute is all highway it may be fine. As stated earlier, when it goes the pieces may cause damage to the clutch basket which in my case was a substantial groove I was able to file the sharp edges down so I did not have to replace it.

Good luck
 
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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 04:46 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by 60Gunner
Cost for the 7200B is roughly $20 and easy to do.
On line I've found the range from $10 to $95. Where did you get yours? And do you know enough about bearings to say why one would cost $95?
 
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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 08:18 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by kuri77
On line I've found the range from $10 to $95. Where did you get yours? And do you know enough about bearings to say why one would cost $95?
I got mine on Amazon. I see they're $27.56 there now.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 08:40 PM
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found em thanks, why did you pick that one-because it was in the middle of the price range? descriptions for all of them seem to be the same almost
 
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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 10:07 PM
  #15  
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I’ve ran nothing but factory bearings 1993,1992, 2002 with a combined mileage north of 120k . Zero problems, 110k of that mileage was on high performance 90plus hp set ups.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2020 | 11:35 AM
  #16  
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I couldn´t find or keep a proper clutch adjustment on my 2010 883L. I installed the Energy 1 extra plate kevlar clutch. I was sure to find a 20w50 oil with JASO MA2/JASO MA specs( recommended by Energy 1). it took about 600 miles for the new clutch to get broke in, but now its great. A good decision. One thing I noticed this winter is that after sitting several weeks, its a little sticky, but each week I go out and pull the clutch lever a couple times, and once a month start and let the bike run while occasionally pulling clutch lever. No problems.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2020 | 04:17 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by C&B
I couldn´t find or keep a proper clutch adjustment on my 2010 883L. I installed the Energy 1 extra plate kevlar clutch. I was sure to find a 20w50 oil with JASO MA2/JASO MA specs( recommended by Energy 1). it took about 600 miles for the new clutch to get broke in, but now its great. A good decision. One thing I noticed this winter is that after sitting several weeks, its a little sticky, but each week I go out and pull the clutch lever a couple times, and once a month start and let the bike run while occasionally pulling clutch lever. No problems.
They all stick when cold. The bigger problem is starting your bike occasionally and not riding it until it's completely up to temperature. Every time you just start it for a few minutes, there is a lot of condensation. If the engine does not get up to temperature, that moisture stays in your gearbox and engine oil. Next thing you have milky oil full of water, no bueno. Always take it out for about 30 minutes every time you start your bike.

John
 
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Old Jan 18, 2020 | 05:48 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Madnss
I’ve ran nothing but factory bearings 1993,1992, 2002 with a combined mileage north of 120k . Zero problems, 110k of that mileage was on high performance 90plus hp set ups.
I havent either but replaced it while I was in there anyway and the axial load thing makes sense so.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2020 | 09:28 PM
  #19  
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I've replaced my spring plate with 3 stock plates (2 steels and 1 friction) while retaining the original clutch spring. I also replaced the clutch throw out bearing with the *** 7200B TVP Angular Contact Bearing. The stock spring plate and throw out bearing were still good but I have the peace of mind that they won't self-destruct. The end result is a smoother, lighter pull on the clutch lever and a slightly quicker clutch engagement. The most expensive part was the clutch spring tool which is a necessity. You MAY be able to do the job without it but it will be much harder and more frustrating IFyou succeed. I recommend doing both jobs.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2020 | 09:43 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by John Harper
They all stick when cold. The bigger problem is starting your bike occasionally and not riding it until it's completely up to temperature. Every time you just start it for a few minutes, there is a lot of condensation. If the engine does not get up to temperature, that moisture stays in your gearbox and engine oil. Next thing you have milky oil full of water, no bueno. Always take it out for about 30 minutes every time you start your bike.

John
I do that. and I have also shortened intervals between oil changes
 
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