The dreaded spring plate problem
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Novice
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 19
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From: Riverside
The dreaded spring plate problem
Hi everybody, been reading a lot on here with people's questions regarding the same issue. I have some sticking clutch issues in first and second and it's pretty challenging to find neutral. I adjusted the clutch twice and checked the oil level and adjuster screw. Alas to no avail, on top of that, the bike started creeping on me even when I have the clutch lever all the way pulled in.
I am going to be ordering the energy one clutch kit with extra plates to Tackle this. The kit comes with the tool I've seen to remove the diaphragm. Besides general tools to remove the housing and what not. Have I left anything out? Thanks! Any advice greatly appreciated.
I am going to be ordering the energy one clutch kit with extra plates to Tackle this. The kit comes with the tool I've seen to remove the diaphragm. Besides general tools to remove the housing and what not. Have I left anything out? Thanks! Any advice greatly appreciated.
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 844
Likes: 91
From: San Diego
I will be watching this with interest as I have had the same problem for a long time. I have the screaming eagle clutch and spring. I have done everything you have done above and still have a very hard time getting into neutral.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 4,359
Likes: 1,219
From: Dubuque, IA
Trouble finding neutral is probably one of the only warning signs to a spring plate failure. However, trouble finding neutral isn't only a product of this. But if it's suddenly an issue in an otherwise properly adjusted clutch, it's a good possibility.
If you still have the spring plate, it's been a wide practice to eliminate it before it becomes one because when it goes, it goes often causing damage to the basket or worse.
Another sign is yellow specs in the primary fluid.
The most common and cheapest way to eliminate it is by adding 2 steels plates and a friction in it's place. This also results in better hook up that most appreciate. You can just add stock plates to the existing setup but most just upgrade to a better performance clutch kit that includes the extras necessary to eliminate the spring plate. Some report a squeal on take off tho most say it goes away after a little time. Most never experience this squeal and it's cause isn't really known.
There's a new stainless spring plate on the market now but most feel it just isn't necessary and I havent heard of anyone trying it yet and certainly no long term results in.
The other fix a few have done is use the judder spring setup found in XRs. This method has been linked to making adjustment harder as it adds to the travel necessary for engagement to disengagement.
Pick your poison.
If you still have the spring plate, it's been a wide practice to eliminate it before it becomes one because when it goes, it goes often causing damage to the basket or worse.
Another sign is yellow specs in the primary fluid.
The most common and cheapest way to eliminate it is by adding 2 steels plates and a friction in it's place. This also results in better hook up that most appreciate. You can just add stock plates to the existing setup but most just upgrade to a better performance clutch kit that includes the extras necessary to eliminate the spring plate. Some report a squeal on take off tho most say it goes away after a little time. Most never experience this squeal and it's cause isn't really known.
There's a new stainless spring plate on the market now but most feel it just isn't necessary and I havent heard of anyone trying it yet and certainly no long term results in.
The other fix a few have done is use the judder spring setup found in XRs. This method has been linked to making adjustment harder as it adds to the travel necessary for engagement to disengagement.
Pick your poison.
Last edited by 60Gunner; Jan 5, 2020 at 03:39 PM.
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 19
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From: Riverside
This seems to be a common hurdle for sporty owners :/ I hope all goes well with your bike too!
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 4,359
Likes: 1,219
From: Dubuque, IA
The other thing most of us do is replace the throw out bearing while we're in there with one made for the axial load it takes. The stock one is not the best for this application and not made for the axial load.
The most common one used the is the *** 7200B. There are cheaper chinese ones that usually come in pairs that don't seem to last any longer than the stock one.
I highly recommend replacing this at the same time. Cost for the 7200B is roughly $20 and easy to do.
The most common one used the is the *** 7200B. There are cheaper chinese ones that usually come in pairs that don't seem to last any longer than the stock one.
I highly recommend replacing this at the same time. Cost for the 7200B is roughly $20 and easy to do.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 4,607
Likes: 3,312
From: Virginia
Hi everybody, been reading a lot on here with people's questions regarding the same issue. I have some sticking clutch issues in first and second and it's pretty challenging to find neutral. I adjusted the clutch twice and checked the oil level and adjuster screw. Alas to no avail, on top of that, the bike started creeping on me even when I have the clutch lever all the way pulled in.
I am going to be ordering the energy one clutch kit with extra plates to Tackle this. The kit comes with the tool I've seen to remove the diaphragm. Besides general tools to remove the housing and what not. Have I left anything out? Thanks! Any advice greatly appreciated.
I am going to be ordering the energy one clutch kit with extra plates to Tackle this. The kit comes with the tool I've seen to remove the diaphragm. Besides general tools to remove the housing and what not. Have I left anything out? Thanks! Any advice greatly appreciated.
And I'll add after replacing spring plates on two Sportsters they still don't like finding neutral sometimes.
Last edited by VAFish; Jan 5, 2020 at 06:14 PM.
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 19
Likes: 18
From: Riverside
Its a 2018 and she has a little over 21,500. I ride 100 miles daily sometimes. 5 days a week or so. I'm thinking I'm going to have to slow down until after I get the clutch replaced just to be safe.
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Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 19
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From: Riverside
Thanks this really helps. I will be replacing the clutch asap. I figure it will probably take a week or so to get to me unless I can find it at a local motorsports store or something. I ride every day at least 100-150 miles to work. You think I should pump the brakes until I for sure have all components running at least close to what they used to?
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 4,607
Likes: 3,312
From: Virginia
I wouldn't stop riding it if the parts will be in soon. I doubt the spring plate is totally disintegrating already, it may be worn and loose. I replaced the spring plate on my 2005 at a few more miles than you have. Nothing was broken but the spring plate was pretty loose. And like yours had problems getting into neutral and I kept having to adjust the clutch. I put in the cheapest fiber and steel plates I could find, they are grabby and they still squeal a little bit occasionally. My daughters 883 had 42,000 miles on it when I replaced her spring plate. It seemed OK, but the rest of the clutch pack was right at the wear limits so I put in a Barnett extra plate clutch kit.
Hi everybody, been reading a lot on here with people's questions regarding the same issue. I have some sticking clutch issues in first and second and it's pretty challenging to find neutral. I adjusted the clutch twice and checked the oil level and adjuster screw. Alas to no avail, on top of that, the bike started creeping on me even when I have the clutch lever all the way pulled in.
I am going to be ordering the energy one clutch kit with extra plates to Tackle this. The kit comes with the tool I've seen to remove the diaphragm. Besides general tools to remove the housing and what not. Have I left anything out? Thanks! Any advice greatly appreciated.
I am going to be ordering the energy one clutch kit with extra plates to Tackle this. The kit comes with the tool I've seen to remove the diaphragm. Besides general tools to remove the housing and what not. Have I left anything out? Thanks! Any advice greatly appreciated.