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I gotta tell ya I am usually not a fan of trikes, they have their purpose, for sure. BUT that is one SWEET looking setup, I LOVE that IRS back there. Cane she lean that into corners? It sure looks like it could.
VERY VERY nicely done!
Wiring, I have checked the source but will check again. Tired eyes can overlook, for sure. I will also look into those connectors under the seat. Although I have my gate/door/door opener under there, so its very crowded.
As fast as she has gone so far it stays upright. It does have an anti roll bar fitted.
The back end is a bolt on kit so there was no modification to the frame. It uses the top shock mounts and swing arm mounts. The tubing is real heavy and the largest from any company in the UK. The downside is the whole trike is now 100Kg heavier than it was when a bike.
The running gear is from an E39 5 series BMW.
Still very capable running at 80mph. Cindy hasn't admitted if she has gone any faster.
As fast as she has gone so far it stays upright. It does have an anti roll bar fitted.
The back end is a bolt on kit so there was no modification to the frame. It uses the top shock mounts and swing arm mounts. The tubing is real heavy and the largest from any company in the UK. The downside is the whole trike is now 100Kg heavier than it was when a bike.
The running gear is from an E39 5 series BMW.
Still very capable running at 80mph. Cindy hasn't admitted if she has gone any faster.[/QUOTE]
LOL Thats a good one right there. Nothing like a half ton sporty. As torquey as these motors are its probably hardly noticable.
Ok a little progress. I separated the circuits and it works. I had grnd thru my wired install. I also left low light thru wired install, but separated the high light and connected it directly to the battery hot terminal. With key on, low (tail) light is lit, and as soon as I touch high (brake) wire to battery, it lights, remove it and it returns to tail light only.
Now where to pick up brake light power from another point and see if it works
Ok, tried another source at tail light, no good. Then I tried the power lead at the rear brake light switch.......IT WORKS yipee. Now to figure how to run a wire from here to there.
Well, it seems the R/Y wire is the issue. I tested just connecting to the O/W wire at the rear brake switch. It worked perfectly. Now that Iran the power lead all the way back to the brake switch, and connected it to the downstream side R/Y wire it acts just as before. The only thing I can think of next, is for the brake wire I just ran can be used to power a relay, that connects power directly from the battery.
It HAS to get its power only when the brakes are applied. Unless someone else knows of a CLEAN (not through bike electronics) power source, that I can try. Man I thought I had this figured out.
Well I can finally report total success. Although I do not know why the R/Y wire will not allow both high and low to operate. The low operates fine being tapped off the tail light, so I created a new circuit.
So after much thought, I devised a circuit that works perfectly. I had run a hot lead to the brake switch, up through the rubber "conduit" inside the rear fender, to the brake switch, so I decided to not waste that effort. I used that wire to provide the load side of the relay. The relay is a 12v 40 amp SPST. I know 40 amp is overkill, but it was one I had on hand. My choices were use that one, wait for mail order, or a 25 mile drive to a store.
The relay is only about 1 cu in in size anyway. For the hot side, I used one of those add a circuit fused lines. The ones where you remove a fuse (15 amp light fuse, in this case) and plug this in. Reinsert 15 amp fuse for original circuit and add a 10 amp fuse for new circuit. This became the hot side of the relay contacts. For the coil, I tapped the power from the load side of the brake switch. In other words, when the brakes are depressed, this powers this line, and energizes the relay coil. For the ground side of the coil, I went straight to the engine ground.
The relay is tucked in against the vapor canister, behind the rear cylinder, and is zip tied to it, to hold it up from potential wet spots down low.
If I knew then what I know now, I would have used a SPDT relay, and the NC side would be running lights, with the NO side being the brake side. No messing with tail light wires that way. Oh well, it looks clean now, and works like I intended.
I guess that depends. Look at the Can Am Spyder. It is a trike and definitely leans. I didn't know if his was setup like that or not. Yes I know the Spyder is unique, but I have not studied either closely, thus the auestion.
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