Hey there. I got a new-to-me 2011 HD Sportster XL1200X 48. Just over 5,000 miles. And I paid $4900.

I’ve got the basic upgrades planned: handlebars; stage 1 air, exhaust, fuel pack. IN a bit.

I have a couple questions:

1. If I’m putting together an HD toolbox to keep in the garage, what tools do I need? I know monkey wrenches, socket set. I know torque wrench but what drive size? I know torx bit set, but do I need them in bit form so they fit into a socket, or do they make them like sockets? What else? If you answer, see the service manual, that’s fine. I looked in the Haynes manual and a the list was LOOOONGGGG!!!

2. My first upgrade will be handlebars. I want 8” riser chumps. Will I need a new brake line, clutch, and idle and electrical? Like a Burley wire kit? If so, why are the wire kits nearly $300 while the bars are around $100? Is that just how it goes and I need to budget $400 for bars?

 

Your bike is gorgeous, love the orange and black! You got a great bike at a killer price IMO. 5000 miles, what a bargain, she's practically brand new.

1. Buy a FSM (Factory Service Manual) look to Ebay first, but get one. Maybe a FPM (Factory Parts Manual) too. If you plan to keep your bike for a while, like 30 years (me).

2.Get a good Torx T27 for the derby cover bolts (clutch adjustment and inspection cover). Add other Torx as needed. Torque wrench, only for the big stuff IMO. Too many kooks misread inch/pounds for foot/pounds and break ****. If you have any experience at all, just trust your skills. Big stuff like the engine, follow the manual. I use an old bar style torque wrench, but good click stop ones work fine, just remember to reset torque to "0" when you're done using it. If you have a decent socket and wrench set (SAE) you're good to go. I can't really think of any unusual tool I need for my Sportster. My bike has been trouble free for 30 years almost, so ride with confidence and a big smile! Basic maintenance is all I've ever had to do, easy peasy.

3. Can't help you with your bars. I'm old school and not into the riser bars at all. Had an cafe RD400 for many years and like the stock/lower bars. I'm sure others know about taller bars and what wiring obstacles and ways to avoid them are and will chime in.

Welcome to our forum. We are always happy to help out with any technical questions. I stayed in St. George last summer on my way home from flyfishing in Wyoming. It's really, really beautiful in that area. All those red cliffs and geology blew me away. That whole area must be great for motorcycles.

John

PS: I have a T27 torx bit socket, I don't like those small bits. I got a Craftsman off Ebay, only a few bucks.

PSS: Get ready for the chaos when you ask what oil to use in the engine, and what to use in the primary chain/transmission case. You won't believe the worms that crawl out of that (oil) can!! You have to ask, just to see the reaction. Priceless. If madnss or apache snow say something, listen.

 

Good looking ‘48 and congrats.

As far was the new bars go, your stock clutch and throttle cables will work. I ran them when I used to run 10” Z bars. You might get away with the stock wiring as well, I internally wired mine so I’m not sure. Stock brake line didn’t fit, I got one from Magnum shielding. Bike parts are expensive, get used to it. But doing your own work will save lots of money and you’ll enjoy working in your own bike.

+1 on the FSM. It’s a lifesaver and money saver.

I’d go with a 3/8 drive torque wrench and get adapters for 1/4 and 1/2 sockets. I recommend a 1/4 drive in/lb torque wrench too, lots of small torque measurements in that range. For torx bits I like the sockets. An Allen key set (the nice ones with handles) comes in handy too. There’s a lot more but a standard 200 something piece mechanics set and the above will get you started.

 

Over a period of time I have replaced as many Torx bolts as possible with stainless steel Allen Bolts . I've still got a few to go but I just don't like them . One tool you will need should you require to remove the front caliper(s) is a 12 point M10 socket .

 

If by monkey wrench you mean an adjustable spanner then I say only as a very last resort. Get proper spanners, ring first choice open end second choice and sockets.

When it comes to torque wrenches I use the Nm scale so there is no chance of mixing up inches and pounds. The FSM specifies Nm torque values.

 

Don't go buying tools just for the sake of it! The reason we specifically mention Torx T27 is because that size is not routinely included in Torx kits, especially cheap ones. Torx are fine, as long as you pay attention to the correct size for each fastener you tackle - I have keys plus 3/8" drive bits and have been using Torx since 1990. Note that a T25 tool in a T27 screw will wreck it pdq, hence the warnings! A 10mm combination wrench will be useful for your battery terminals - I bought mine in 1974 for my first Harley. Best to buy good quality tools as you need them, rather than spend big on a lot of cheap stuff. Some of my current AF tools date back to my days of riding new BSAs back in the 1960s! They still work....

 

I found an official service manual for my 2011 Sportster. I keyword searched all 768 for "Torx" and that word appeared only 27, sometimes in the context of "use a 6pt socket (not a Torx)." BUT the only values of Torx I saw was T25 and T27. Are these the only two torx sizes I need?

 

I haven't got the sizes to hand but shock absorber bolts, handlebar controls (2 sizes) and the cable strain relief inside all use different sizes of torx.

 

T27 will allow maintenance of your primary/transmission and clutch adjustment for sure. Additional bits will depend on what work you plan. My bike does not use Torx bits on other parts, just the primary case so I can't tell you what additional sizes are common.

Another useful tool is a 5/16" stubby Allen wrench. Bondhus makes one. It will allow you to change intake manifold seals.

John