Got a clank
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Novice
Joined: Jul 2016
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Got a clank
Was riding, started backfiring and bogging, as I pulled over got a loud clanking, front plug was almost completely collapsed... any ideas? Someone said either a rod or a pin... any suggestions....
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From: Honah Lee
You think the plug had physical contact with piston?
Post a picture. Add a signature line on year model and all letters.
Some detail on bike maintence , miles and modifications.
Post a picture. Add a signature line on year model and all letters.
Some detail on bike maintence , miles and modifications.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; May 3, 2020 at 05:12 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Honah Lee
I think you need to replace the plugs and see what it does. If that ill set plug had started missing, it would have created your run problem and that in it self will rattle a roller bearing motor.
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Novice
Joined: Jul 2016
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
I replaced the plugs a week ago when the same thing happened. This time I got the clanking...
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From: Edmonton Alberta Canada
I'd do a compression test, the only way the piston would hit the plug is if it's the wrong plug and too long or the piston has divorced the connecting rod and is doing it's own thing in there, much more likely that a valve has dropped or a nut/bolt from the air cleaner has found it's way into the combustion chamber.
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From: Kalifornia
I would pull the plugs and get a bore scope and look inside before restarting that engine. Nothing should clank, or knock a spark plug closed. I have had cars (71 Triumph TR6) that actually split a piston. The split was across the top and went down to the oil ring. When cranking the engine, with plug removed, and using a flashlight, you could see part of the piston, would go down a fraction of a second later than the rest.
When I pulled the piston, the compression rings were all that was holding it together. Had I kept driving when I heard the noise it made, no doubt would have lost the entire engine. I had just put new rings and had head repair done on that engine too. Only did a visual on pistons. Magnaflux would prob have shown the flaw, but that was money I fid not have back then.
When I pulled the piston, the compression rings were all that was holding it together. Had I kept driving when I heard the noise it made, no doubt would have lost the entire engine. I had just put new rings and had head repair done on that engine too. Only did a visual on pistons. Magnaflux would prob have shown the flaw, but that was money I fid not have back then.
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Novice
Joined: Jul 2016
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
I'd do a compression test, the only way the piston would hit the plug is if it's the wrong plug and too long or the piston has divorced the connecting rod and is doing it's own thing in there, much more likely that a valve has dropped or a nut/bolt from the air cleaner has found it's way into the combustion chamber.
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Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
I would pull the plugs and get a bore scope and look inside before restarting that engine. Nothing should clank, or knock a spark plug closed. I have had cars (71 Triumph TR6) that actually split a piston. The split was across the top and went down to the oil ring. When cranking the engine, with plug removed, and using a flashlight, you could see part of the piston, would go down a fraction of a second later than the rest.
When I pulled the piston, the compression rings were all that was holding it together. Had I kept driving when I heard the noise it made, no doubt would have lost the entire engine. I had just put new rings and had head repair done on that engine too. Only did a visual on pistons. Magnaflux would prob have shown the flaw, but that was money I fid not have back then.
When I pulled the piston, the compression rings were all that was holding it together. Had I kept driving when I heard the noise it made, no doubt would have lost the entire engine. I had just put new rings and had head repair done on that engine too. Only did a visual on pistons. Magnaflux would prob have shown the flaw, but that was money I fid not have back then.
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Edmonton Alberta Canada
Then as Handrifle suggested a bore scope would be the next step to actually see what is going on in there, 130 PSI would indicate that the piston and valves are in place but something must be causing the plug damage. Did you open up the air cleaner to see if there are any fasteners missing?