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So I realize you've already got your front wheel, but here's a pic of another
forum member's roadster wheel with twin discs. (forum member cvaria)
He eventually switched to USD forks....
So the wheel isnt perfectly centered. Theres about a 0.25 difference, where the brake side is closer to the fork. However, the disc lines up with the caliper. How bad is that? I could get custom spacers made to center the wheel and to space the disc, but thats obviously more work.
Axle Spacers
I got the spacers in from Vulcan Works, so the wheel is now centered. There is the tiniest amount of play, where I probably should've went with 0.86" or 0.87" spacers vs 0.855" spacers. I compared the original spacers with the new ones, and the difference in tolerance is not even half a mm. I'm thinking it should be fine...
Brake Caliper
I measured a 3.50mm gap between the fork and brake caliper, but ended up using two washers from the good old Home Depot that measured 3mm. I torqued the caliper bolts to spec, and everything seems fine. I might look for some custom spacers, if there are issues during the test ride. I'm waiting on a rear wheel, so it might be a while before that lol. I also need to replace the bolts for the front disc, as recommended in the manual.
UPDATE: Its been a while, but the conversion is complete. I was waiting on parts for a while and I decided to paint my bike too. Let me know what you guys think or if you have any questions about the conversion.
Axle Spacers
I got the spacers in from Vulcan Works, so the wheel is now centered. There is the tiniest amount of play, where I probably should've went with 0.86" or 0.87" spacers vs 0.855" spacers. I compared the original spacers with the new ones, and the difference in tolerance is not even half a mm. I'm thinking it should be fine...
Are you talking side-to-side play, as in the wheel can be moved side-to-side in the forks? If so, there is an end play spec and you need to make sure you're within it's limits. Too tight and the wheel can eventually seize when things heat up as you're going down the road - I've seen aluminum wheels ruined by the bearing seizing, as well as the road rash on rider and bike when the front wheel locks up (don't ask how I know this!). Too loose and you can find out all about the excitement of a tank-slapper - you aren't strong enough to hold the bars in place as they attempt to dish the sides of your gas tank aka Indian Larry, wrench your arms out of their shoulder sockets, and then decide to spit you off the bike like a sunflower seed out of the mouth of a second-string baseball player forever consigned to the dugout of a Class C farm team (again, don't ask me how I know this!).
Are you talking side-to-side play, as in the wheel can be moved side-to-side in the forks? If so, there is an end play spec and you need to make sure you're within it's limits. Too tight and the wheel can eventually seize when things heat up as you're going down the road - I've seen aluminum wheels ruined by the bearing seizing, as well as the road rash on rider and bike when the front wheel locks up (don't ask how I know this!). Too loose and you can find out all about the excitement of a tank-slapper - you aren't strong enough to hold the bars in place as they attempt to dish the sides of your gas tank aka Indian Larry, wrench your arms out of their shoulder sockets, and then decide to spit you off the bike like a sunflower seed out of the mouth of a second-string baseball player forever consigned to the dugout of a Class C farm team (again, don't ask me how I know this!).
neither really. i think the movement is due to the ID of the spacer being slight larger than the OD of the axle. i doubt that the actual width of the spacers is the issue, since all i did was measure the total width of the original spacers and /2 to center the wheel in the axle. the brake disc lines up perfectly with the caliper. the wheel itself doesn't move side to side in the forks.
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