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We didn't change the idle jet in my son's 2005 883C but did put in a 180 main jet and that eliminated almost all the back fire in his. You may also want to check the exhaust gasket at the heads too. If the other guy didn't replace them when he changed the pipes they could be leaking and the introduction of fresh air into the pipes at the head can cause the exhaust gasses to reignite as it leaves the head and will cause backfires as well.
Stock jetting will be way too lean (if that's what's in there now) so changing to the 'one size fits most' jetting recommended for an 883 (45 pilot and 175(?) main, can't recall exactly off hand) will get it at least in a decent ballpark. Also, lookup the 'lolipop' mod. It seems like 'snake oil' but it really does help with the sag in the midrange. I have drag pipes on mine (for the moment) and it made an undeniable difference in the middle.
As far as people telling you drag pipes are worthless at anything below WOT, don't listen. Drag pipes are pretty much the worst choice in exhaust (aside from stock), but that doesn't mean you can't get them to run acceptably and if that's what you got or you can't afford to change them, or if *gasp* you actually like them, there's no reason why you have to live with a crappy running bike. My bike runs smooth, pulls cleanly top to bottom and has no running or starting issues. Granted, the pull from 3000-4000rpm is softer than it could be but it's hardly a giant cavernous hole that the bike barely pulls itself through.
I'll second the Lollipops. Put them in my son's 1200S that came with drag pipes. Much better low and mid range power. At least according to my Butt Dyno. And it still makes all the noise.
I'll second the Lollipops. Put them in my son's 1200S that came with drag pipes. Much better low and mid range power. At least according to my Butt Dyno. And it still makes all the noise.
Yeah, I was very surprised at the difference they made. I really didn't expect much, if anything, but it was so cheap to try I said "what the heck". Really, the only downside is that they pretty much eliminated the straight pipe 'cackle' when shifting, that was actually kinda cool (yeah, I'll admit to liking it ).
There's actually a video on YT of a guy from some big name shop (can't recall which offhand) dyno testing them and it showed like 15-20ft/lbs in the middle over just plain straights! That's an ENORMOUS difference for just a few bucks!
Yeah, I was very surprised at the difference they made. I really didn't expect much, if anything, but it was so cheap to try I said "what the heck". Really, the only downside is that they pretty much eliminated the straight pipe 'cackle' when shifting, that was actually kinda cool (yeah, I'll admit to liking it ).
There's actually a video on YT of a guy from some big name shop (can't recall which offhand) dyno testing them and it showed like 15-20ft/lbs in the middle over just plain straights! That's an ENORMOUS difference for just a few bucks!
Try rotating the lollipops a little. My sons are at a 45 degree angle, still sounds good.
And as for cheap, I made my own with some bolts and washers I had laying around the garage and a few seconds with the welder.
Here is a thread that shows 15 ft lbs of torque in the low to mid range.
That's the video (in that thread) and it was S&S that did it! Still amazing the difference for such an inexpensive change.
I too made my own from some bits I had in my 'nuts and bolts' drawer in the garage.
As far as the sound, it still sounds great it just doesn't really cackle/burble between gears like before. Still, a small price to pay for a huge bump in midrange torque.
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