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Thanks for all the responses. After staring at it for too long and sleeping on it I think I'm going to have someone else do it. While tempting to do it myself because it is at a pretty accessible angle, I've only had to remove a handful of broken bolts and nothing quite as deep as this. Someone might be able to get it off without removing it from the frame. Got a drill bit out and it's a straight shot without any real obstructions. Based on how blue it looks I would guess it has been like this a while too and I only noticed it because the other one fell off. Just bought the bike last fall. Had I think around 12,000 miles on it and I've got it up to 16 something. This is the first time having to remove the pipes so I'm not sure I've even looked at the exhaust headers, at least since I bought it.
So since I've decided not to do it myself I guess my next question is where to bring it. Is my best bet some sort of machine shop or bike mechanic at a dealer somewhere? It looks like I can remove that part of the cylinder head while the engine is still in the frame? Or do I need to actually pull the motor to get it off?
Update: called my local independent shop that I go to for tires. Said they would do it and as long as they could get to it with it still in the frame it would only run me the couple hours of labor it would take. Going to take it over to them next Tuesday. Thanks for all the suggestions. Despite the hit to the wallet and missing riding on the holiday weekend I'm glad I didn't decide to try it myself.
Went for a nice ride today. 2005 Sportster 1200 Roadster. About 20 miles in started noticing the engine sounding a little off, especially at idle. Rode back home and got to looking around and noticed the exhaust flange on the rear exhaust just hanging without being bolted on. Nut must have vibrated loose. Then I noticed one of the studs was completely missing. Took the pipe off and sure enough it's sheared off. Not even flush, but recessed probably a good quarter inch.
Doing some searching around the forums it seems like the general consensus is not to attempt to remove using an extractor and rather to take the cylinder head off and take it to a machine shop to have them remove it. Seems smart. Deep enough in there and I'm an inexperienced enough mechanic that I don't think I want to attempt it myself anyway.
My question is, can I bolt the exhaust on using the remaining stud and still run it for the rest of the season if I'm diligent about checking the nut since they're obviously prone to vibrating off? I'm currently in the process of a top end rebuild on my suzuki engine so this is my sole ride right now. I've only just started riding this season due to title/registration issues, and since it's almost July already the riding days are numbered here in Michigan. I'd hate to have my riding season cut short just as it was getting started and it would be nice if I could wait until the snows come and I'm not riding anymore to get the cylinder head off.
That's disgusting. That is some seriously foul hackery.
The basis of this thread is a question about whether to ride to the end of the season with a missing exhaust stud . That's exactly the dilemma that faced the owner of the bike pictured . Sure it's not pretty but if it gets you back on the road for a few more months then it's all good .
If you were able to take that picture at that angle then a mechanic or machinist should be able to remove it in little time.
No mention of miles or history so perhaps it was broken for a while.
I would not ride it like that.
i would take it to someone who specialses in stud removal. They will either use some form of extractor. Or if it was mine weld a nuit on too the broken stud. you then have some heat, let it cool then try. My mates evo has had a broken stud for a couple of years still rides it, not many miles a year though.
An old school machinist will have it out quick smart. Just remember when you go to the machine shop take a new stud and gasket, youll be riding away fixed!
Anyone with the proper drill guide tool (JIMS, George's Garage, etc) can easily and quickly fix that broken stud, without removing the head.
Never, ever, attempt to extract the broken stud. That's a rookie mistake that lots of people make because they don't know any better. Those factory studs have a special interference fit thread, which means they are designed to bind up in there. And they do a mighty fine job. If you attempt to extract it, as opposed to drilling it out, you are far more likely to make things worse than make them better. The drill guide tools do a fantastic job. They use a 1/4 inch drill bit and it's a 5/16 stud. Generally speaking, using the drill guide you can basically hollow out the stud, leaving a threaded shell that's pretty easy to get out of there. And generally the threads will still be good.
Despite the complications of being unable to extract them, my own personal opinion is that the interference thread studs are a good thing, and whenever I perform this repair, I use a factory stud for that reason. I've yet to find an aftermarket replacement stud that's interference fit thread on one side like the factory piece. Without that interference fit thread, the stud will try to unscrew on you. That area is way too hot to rely on Loctite to hold it in place.
The tool that George's offers is cheap compared to what you'll spend to have it fixed: https://www.georges-garage.com/produ...tud-drill-jig/ . A new factory stud is about 5 bucks at the dealer, part number 16715-83
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