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I nabbed a Super E and am working on getting it installed. Having a clearance issue with getting the S&S 2-bolt inlet style manifold to fit. Everything I can find online says stock intake flange clamps get used. S&S manifold outlets are slightly wider, so it's a tighter fit. Basically the manifold doesn't want to get pushed "back" far enough for the front/upper manifold bolts to clear. Any tips or things you learned while installing your Super E, or did you have this same issue?
And yes, I know how to do intake seals/get the flanges to align properly, and have done it a handful of times. This is my first time working with the S&S manifold on a Sportster. Also yes I'm aware the CV is a fantastic carb, and I have no qualms with it, basically trying this out for kicks and giggles since I have the Super E. I also have an adapter bracket that lets the press-in CV carbs bolt to a S&S intake manifold so I won't have to change seals if I decided to go back to the trusty Keihin CV.
I've had 3 Sportsters, all with S&S Super E's on them. Still riding the 77 XLH 1000. Intake manifold mount's a little different on Ironheads. On S&S website, manifold #16-1650 shows the flange plates. Inner bolt holes are cut open, leaving the solid holes for the outer bolts. Hope that helps ya out.
Sup ya'll, I finally heard back from S&S. Coincidentally before I heard back from them I was able to install it with the stock Flanges. S&S confirmed that their intake flanges are identical to OEM H-D flanges. No internal diameter issue. S&S said my heads may not be clocked or aligned properly, which turned out to be what I discovered. Older shovels have to have the heads clocked cause the tolerances with the clamp style intakes are unforgiving, there's nothing in the Sportster service manual about installing heads with the intake installed to ensure perfect alignment. I'm guessing my heads were slightly misaligned when I installed my 1250 kit a few years back.
Either way I got the intake on and there are no leaks. I just messed around with which bolts when on in which order. What worked for me was leaving the lower slotted bolt for the rear cylinder off, then getting both front cylinder flange bolts on, then the upper one for the rear, then lastly the lower slotted one on. I will definitely be taking measurements next time I do head work to ensure perfect alignment. Was planning on pulling the top end apart next winter anyways, easy excuse to now.
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