When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
1986 sportster, replacing cam position sensor after diagnosing no spark.. New standard motor MCSPA3 came with 3 male pins instead of 2 female 1 male.
Considering return, but after a long search online I haven't found anyone that has advice on de-pinning the RUBBER 3 pin connector, and I have been unsuccessful thus far. I have de-pinned later type connectors, but frustrated so far.
Also, if I did get em out, not sure I would be able to shove them back in (IF I find the right sensor with correct pins, IF)
Can I use my naked butt connectors to splice the stock connector to the new sensor, provided I do a good enough job, without screwing up the re4sistance or anything?
Anyone done this or found a better replacement sensor?
I have used standard motor stuff with success before.
So yer replacing the nosecone timng sensor. Insulated Butt connectors will work just fine. As for the rubber plug end, just cut it off. Use Heat shrink all of the connections.
Pretty sure the old one was an issue. Anyone know if the big twin sensors are the same as the XL sensors? I don't want to hack the one I received if they are different.
Parts finder says OEM plate 32400=80A was superseded by 32400-80B, and a lot of sellers say the the MCSPA1 fits but havent found the difference between this and the MCSPA3 I have. Maybe just the length of the harness??
I see that that is the case with the harnesses, not sure why my sensor came with 3 male pins, must be the later deutsch style plug. Very little info out there on this first-year EVO plug of mine
MC SPA2 has the correct connectors ends, but not sure it may have the length of wire you needed.
Note, you would think with it pinned the correct way, would have the needed length of wire for your application.
Also, if you look at the connector ends on the SPA2, have the rubber barrel lock pieces on the connectors, so would be a matter of just using something that will soften the rubber so you can pull the old connectors, then install the new ones. Hence this type connector does not have a clip lock piece, but just a round section in the channel rubber section.
So either could go with a SPA2 (again, if the wires are long enough for your application), or just say screw it, play the wire cut game with soldering and heat shrinking the SPA3 wires on to the old connector wires. My vote would be the later, since with the age of the rubber connector, going to be as hard as brick, and short of soaking the rubber connector end in CLP to loosen and slightly swell it over weeks of waiting, still going to be no Joy getting the new connectors back in without destroying either them or the wires without the specialized tool for this.
Thanks DANO, My connector is actually in pretty good shape, it was routed on my chopper under the started, a bit more protected.
I have some nice non-insulated (no plastic) butt connectors and some good shrink wrap. I am also leaning toward splicing the MCSPA3 onto my connector for the above reasons.
I thought I would add, the new sensor has continuity through all 3 wires and the old one has none.
Also the module was putting out the 5v reference but the old sensor did not provide a signal when rotor/cup slot moved past (back probed red and black wire)
Wiring and testing new sensor this afternoon.
Did every test in the Service Manual for ignition system
starting with battery, coils, right down to probing the CPS plug and verifying
signal voltage 5v and the drop to about 1v when the rotor cup slot breaks the signal.
All positive results.
continuity through the whole wiring harness, breakers, grounds,
only thing I did find this evening is pretty high voltage drop (12.6 down to 9.6v) when cranking starter,
measured from the battery side of the breaker to main ground..
Low resistance on the wiring in that circuit as well,
battery+ through fuse, the fuse to solenoid, battery to starter terminal..
maybe the starter itself is drawing the cranking voltage too low to trigger the module?
I'm out of stuff to test so I reckon I will pursue this line, There does happen to be an old school
electric motor rebuilder right here in the hills of SEOHIO
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.
1986 cam sensor replace
