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It may be helpful to remove the shock before you start the tap. It's very important to go into the hole straight to correct the threads. Also, since you stripped the first 1/4" of threads, you don't need or want a shorter bolt. If you get the threads sorted you'll be able to thread a bolt of the original length into the undamaged threads deeper in the hole.
I certainly appreciate all the veteran advice whatever way this turns out. I'm hoping like hell the Loctite thread epoxy stuff works. Looks like a JB Weld kinda thing which despite all the trash talk it gets IS amazing. I've got stuff I fixed w/ JB that seemed hopeless.
*edit*
I removed & reinstalled it & it went in OK but got progressively harder quickly. Again I took to about 1/4 in of flush but stopped at 72ft/lbs or damn near 100nM since I read the bolt will break at 135nM. Got a damn good local indy shop scheduled to look at it on the 10th.
I certainly appreciate all the veteran advice whatever way this turns out. I'm hoping like hell the Loctite thread epoxy stuff works. Looks like a JB Weld kinda thing which despite all the trash talk it gets IS amazing. I've got stuff I fixed w/ JB that seemed hopeless.
IN THE RIGHT APPLICATION...JB is good stuff. The old 'hole in the engine block' BS I don't buy. IDK what the tensile is on it but has been tested to 5k PSI which pretty damn good for a $7 tube of glue.
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