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I do see that the E1 spring has half round cut outs on the root ends of 4 of the spring fingers. The H-D are all squared off. I have no idea if that makes a difference or not, but they did go to the trouble to make them that way. I doubt it was a patent infringement issue. Perhaps TC over on XLF was correct.
Great job, Crow48!
John
Last edited by John Harper; May 1, 2025 at 08:14 PM.
I read over on XLF that the Energy One diaphragm spring is a better design than the H-D and allows an easier pull. The guy over on XLF is pretty savvy, but he did not post up any photos to show what the differences were between the E1 and the H-D springs.
John
Here's a picture I took when I changed my 883 clutch to an Energy One clutch with 15% stronger spring
It is the spring plate that I would say is the issue, unless you have a slipping or other complaint, I did not notice in your post.
To fully inspect you'll need to remove the side engine case. Don't forget to have the "special" clutch removal tool on hand... Gaskets
Oil drain/ inspection, may be a waste of time... 1 qt oil and o-ring.
So...
To limit downtime, buy a replacement clutch kit and all the oil & gaskets, or suspected parts ie spring plate and/or stiffer diaphragm spring.
To limit cost, disassemble, inspect, and then order parts.
I`m confused
883 & 1200 share the same stroke of 3.812
How does the straw measure bore ?
You set the piston to BDC and measure the distance from the far side of the wall where it meets the piston to the top of the spark plug hole. If it's an 883 it will be 5-1/2", if it's a 1200 it will be 5-7/8".
Last edited by kvanderploeg; May 2, 2025 at 10:13 AM.
Reason: BDC not BTC
One thing from my shady tree, soak the plates for a good bit. I let mine marinate for 24 hours.
I’ve pulled more than a few clutches with the rear plates spotty dry. Thinking the oiling to the rear plates isn’t the best; a younger man might be tempted to drill a few oiling holes. An old man worries about weakening the basket and it letting go.
In the mid 20ks I’d be looking at the comp, pad and chain too. Button it up, adjust clutch and chain once and enjoy another 20k.
In the mid 20ks Id be looking at the comp, pad and chain too. Button it up, adjust clutch and chain once and enjoy another 20k.
Thinking this may just get pushed to a winter project. It's all sounding and working fine for now. So you'd recommend to replace the chain, the adjuster pad and what's the comp?
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