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Thinking this may just get pushed to a winter project. It's all sounding and working fine for now. So you'd recommend to replace the chain, the adjuster pad and what's the comp?
That's not how I understand it. To me it reads like, now that he's older and wiser he's not needlessly chasing his tail anymore. Figure out exactly what the problem is, fix it and move on
Ehh. to each his own but I don't like fixing what isn't broken (or soon will be). A primary chain & adjuster should easily last 40k miles or more. Check your adjustment when you do your yearly service. If it is good you're fine. If it needs adjustment you're fine. If it is near the end of the range of adjustment then swap the chain & adjuster. If you wait until the chain is stretched to where it can't be adjusted at that point you are probably looking at sprockets too because your over stressing them & causing wear. The weak link in the whole set up is the double plate. Specifically the brass rivets. Those wear through as they are a softer metal. You end up with shavings all over the place that has to be cleaned out & a broken clutch when they let go. Again I'd pull the clutch at your yearly service, see what you have if it has that riveted plate then swap it out for an energy one (or other brand) clutch pack that uses the extra plate kit. It doesn't take long to get the parts if you need them. If you've got more money then time then sure replace it all it's not anymore time to do it all at once & its not hard to do. But I'd start off with a Primary Gasket set (James Gasket sells a good one
) and a compression tool. You might just save your self a few hundred $ and still have piece of mind. Honestly the hardest part of the whole job is setting the clutch freeplay & the primary chain tension & that's not exactly rocket surgery. Not something I'd put off doing myself.
Isn't the spring plate is designed to do the same thing?
John
As far as I can tell it probably has something to do with the decreased travel in a diaphragm spring clutch design and to also enhance the clutch engagement feel. I personally like how the clutch feels better without the spring plate. I slip the clutch a lot idling across parking lots etc. and think it's better for those situations also.
As far as I can tell it probably has something to do with the decreased travel in a diaphragm spring clutch design and to also enhance the clutch engagement feel. I personally like how the clutch feels better without the spring plate. I slip the clutch a lot idling across parking lots etc. and think it's better for those situations also.
Also great for all those low speed drills. Easy engagement and durability.
Apologies KVP and y’all for the bad info on the comp. I haven’t been into the sporty comp and just completed the Dyna so it was front and center. Ran a search and misinterpreted the results before posting, good intentions, bad advice.
KVP, my thoughts were to button it up and be done for a few years until the next fluid swap. My sporty primary is the next project, I’ll be adding an energy one and combing thru the chain, pad and ….sprocket.
So I'm no better than the animals Sitting in the cages in the zoo, man 'Cause compared to the flowers And the birds and the trees I am an apeman…
The only for sure way I know of to reduce that heavy CLUNK going in to first is to get rid of the spring plate. That extra 0.018" plate separation makes a big difference!
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