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Can't say enough about the cap nut socket. Best money ever spent and the progressives are great, front and back. For people that do not have a second pair of hands, it was an easy one man job for me.
On a couple of other bikes I used a rope tied to an overhead beam to get all the weight off the front forks and extend them to the max. The springs didn't extend past the top of the fork with the nut removed. Easy spring replacement. Don't know if this would work with a Harley, but perhaps its been done before.
Some people use a heavier weight fork oil with the stock springs to firm up the front suspension but if you are changing the springs to Progressive's I would use the standard 15 weight oil.
I would agree with that. I still run stock springs. But I switched to the heavier Screamin Eagle fork oil. That stiffened up the front significantly. I'm certain the progressive springs are better, but I think with the better springs you'd be best to run standard weight fork oil.
That slight change in fork oil weight made a BIG difference.
I'm getting ready to do a fork oil change, bought some of those DBI fork caps with removable plug, so I won't need to remove the caps to add new oil ever again.
Which end of the spring goes in first, the tight coil end or looser coil end?
Thanks!
The stock springs on my superlow had a progressive rate. The tightly wound part was on the bottom. I put my Progressive brand springs in the same way. Tightly wound end in first. I have read the front end is quieter assembled that way.
I tell you they sure made a difference. Money well spent.
I installed the Progressive Fork Springs back when my 2007 1200-C had about 5,000 miles on it. It now has 22,500, I used and still use BelRay 7w fork oil. Progressive says it doesn't matter which end goes in first but I did some logical thinking and put them in progressive end first. My thinking was that if you placed the progressive wound end at the top the entire spring had to move before taking advantage of the progressive feature. At the bottom the progressive part can react first. I used a purpose made fork cap socket and palmed the wrench like cHarley did. I used the supplied 3" spacers at their full length which raised the front about .75". That worked out perfectly with the 13.5" 440's in the rear.
Last edited by 1200Cdriver; Oct 31, 2014 at 10:44 AM.
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