Six months ago I ordered a set of Progressive rear shocks and fork springs. I installed the rear shocks the day after they arrived but put off installing the fork springs out of fear, based on several posts here regarding problems that people had getting the fork tube cap nut back on. Silly me, I wasted 6 months worrying about nothing. Another forum member volunteered to come over and supply a second set of hands to help with the job so I took him up on the offer and we tackled the job today. While it may not be mandatory, this is one job where 2 people make the job a breeze, just having someone to hold the forks steady when you get ready to reinstall the fork tube cap nuts. Start to finish took 1 hour, allowing time for smoke breaks and a bit of BS'ing. The real trick when doing this job is to order one of the fork tube cap nut sockets available on EBay and elsewhere.

While I was skeptical as to how much of a difference the Progressive fork springs would affect the ride quality, I have no more doubts. The difference is very noticeable. For just under $70 this change really did improve the ride.

 

So was it just use a magnet to get out the old springs, and then put the new springs and spacers in, hold em down and crank the caps back on?

 

I've been hearing so much about the progressives (front and rear) on this forum. I'm going to have to take the plunge soon.

Right now going down the gentle gutter curb from the driveway is something I dread every time I go over it.

Even non-potholed pavement that isn't entirely smooth really works me over with rythmic bouncing.

Are these the sort of things that the progressives will address in my ride?

 

There is no problem getting the springs out, in fact you need to use caution when unscrewing the fork tube nut. The stock spring is longer than the fork tube by a couple of inches so the nut will "pop" loose as you release the last thread leaving the top of the spring sticking about 2" above the triple tree. You need to drain the fork oil before starting and then refill before reinstalling the cap nut.


Yes, the ride quality, bottoming out and harsh bumps , is greatly improved without sacrificing handeling or feeling like a mushy couch.

 

Congrats on the conversion! Progressive shocks and fork springs are on my list for this winter. What fork oil and weight did you fill up with?

 

Hey...glad to hear that went well for ya. I echo the extra set of hands in this process. Another tool that greatly helps is a palm wrachet. If I remember correctly, seems that cHarley has one of those. And if you have a model that doesn't have the same risers as the custom models. Go ahead and remove the handlebars. It will make the re-install much easier.

 

You can use any standard weight fork oil. I used Bel-Ray "High Performance 15w Fork Oil". No engine oil allowed here.........

 

No, I thought about buying a palm wrachet but decided to try the job without it. I just used my standard 1/2" drive Craftsman wratchet and had no problems starting the threads. I just held the wrench by the wrachet head instead of the handle. The big key here is the fork nut socket and 2 people. I do have the C model with pull back riser so removing the handle bars was not necessary.

 

Thanks. I'm aware of the need for "fork" oil, just wondering what brand and weight since some guys go heavier in the weight department.

 

Some people use a heavier weight fork oil with the stock springs to firm up the front suspension but if you are changing the springs to Progressive's I would use the standard 15 weight oil.