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blown left fork seal

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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 01:04 PM
  #21  
DeJavu's Avatar
DeJavu
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Bellville, Tx
Default RE: blown left fork seal

It would seem the problem has been addressed before but the ding only recreated it. If it were me, I'd bite the bullet, get new fork tubes, seals and slider bushings. The gaiters would replace the old dust boots.
The only place you might f'k up is removing the caps. They are under a few lbs spring pressure and you must press on them as you remove them. The easy way is just let them pop off and get new caps. The problem is the threads are easy to damage, but with new tubes and caps, no worries. Otherwise, follow a manual and it's just dissassemble/reassemble.
You only need to block or jack it up enough to remove the wheel, the triple trees can stay assembled on the neck. Your mechanic will definelty charge more than $180 to do the complete job w/parts.
Be brave, get the new parts and just do it. You'll definetly save some $, tubes are not real expensive.[sm=smiley20.gif]
 
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 12:00 AM
  #22  
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rjg883c
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Default RE: blown left fork seal

My father always told me "If one man built it, another man can repair it". And darned if he wasn't correct. About 35 years ago he and I, mostly him, rebuilt the engine that was in his truck. It was a Detroit 318 from his PeterBuilt. We did it in the back yard.

And since then I have worked on a lot of my motorcycles. In particular I replaced a fork seal in my Magna. It is not that difficult. Take your time and give it a shot yourself.You may be slower and have to check the manual more then a shop mechanic would have to. But if they can do it, so can you.

Ron
 
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 11:02 AM
  #23  
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Stefan
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Default RE: blown left fork seal

thousands of people drive cars with leaky shocks every day. just makes the ride a little bouncier. if it has to wait a week or two, the world wont' end. Just be careful driving.
WTF? ARE YOU TRYING TO KILL THE KID?

I did not quote the "not as bad as it looks" krap post!

Dude, your forkswork indipendently, especially without a fork brace. Watch it in the corners and keep your speed down!

The nut (cap) at the top is torqued and takes a BIG wrench. Handlebars get in the way if you don't take the forks off the bike & the tube needs a big vice with soft jaws (or wooden or rubberblocks)if youtake it off the bike.

You don't need the special seal seating tool. To seat the new seal you can use wood, pvc, or even the old seal. If the old seal gets stuck you can use a screwdriver on it.

Drain the "good" fork before taking it apart. If the oil is okay then don't bother with it and just replace the bad seal.

Remember the front wheel spacer order.

Your front brake will be off and it is a good time to replace the pads as req'd.

All of this is easier with 2 people.

If you get pissed off at all this you can buy a springer front end! Gotta love American aftermarket!
 
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