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Hey don't worry about highjacking my thread. Them look great I ordered something like this, I will get a picture and show you. The only thing is they are long enough, I think they are 2 inches longer, I need at least 4 inches. I'm going to call the dealer, and see if they come any longer. They was for the switches only not the turn singals. I guess i'm going to add some wire to them my self.
Using the shrink tube and aligator clips (to make wire holder) purchased from LOWES I cut an old computer power pack harness for multicolered wires - 10 bucks - really not much more work and I didn't have to risk snaping the switch housing taking it apart. Once soldred, clean the area with denatured alcohol to emove the flux, then slide the shrink tube and done. IMO soldering is better - push pins can come apart and is just as much work.
Where is the best place to do the splice? If I cut and solder, I'm doing that somewhere between the riser and the controls, right? Run the wires inside the bars and no one sees the extensions?
what I did was to remove the tank - made it easier for my ham hocks to reach in and saved me from dinging the tank. I cut the wires about 4" from the connector end under the tank after removing the connector from the socket again to make it easy to reach, figure if a connection went bad, easier to reach it there than inside the bars. I not only shrink tubed the connections, but shrink tubed the wires all together - made for a very water tight sealed wire harness and even if it wasn't a perfect match, it is hidden by the tank. Also, the benifit of this is long enough uncut wires to go entirely through the bars and behind the riser before having to make connections - hope this helps - yes, this leades to soldering each end of the connector wire extension, but doing one wire at a time also made it idiot proof for soldering - hint, slip the shrink tube onto the wire first, including the larger diamiter for wrapping all wires.
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