Primary Oil change question
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Cruiser
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Primary Oil change question
The shop manual says to pull the clutch cover to refill the primary involving the removal of 6 screws and having to hold the bike upright to refill.
Why not just open the primary chain inspection cover (2 screws) and pour in the oil there?
Why not just open the primary chain inspection cover (2 screws) and pour in the oil there?
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Midland, TX
RE: Primary Oil change question
That'll work just fine. Make sure you pour in the correct amount according to the service manual. One of the reasons they suggest pulling the derby cover is to get the correct amount and that is determined by the level in relation to the chain.
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Cruiser
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RE: Primary Oil change question
It calls for an even quart. What could be simpler than drain it and add a quart? Besides, it looks like there's things that could go wrong by pulling the clutch cover. I think I'll leave mine alone.
Another question. When I drained the transmission oil it looked a bit milky as if it had some water in it and the oil was grey with very fine metal dust (no chunks). Is that norml? The bike hasn't been ridden in the rain or even subjected to a car wash wand, is just now at 1,000 miles so I'm at a loss as to when or how any water found it's way into the tranny. Should I be alarmed?
Another question. When I drained the transmission oil it looked a bit milky as if it had some water in it and the oil was grey with very fine metal dust (no chunks). Is that norml? The bike hasn't been ridden in the rain or even subjected to a car wash wand, is just now at 1,000 miles so I'm at a loss as to when or how any water found it's way into the tranny. Should I be alarmed?
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,513
Likes: 4
From: Midland, TX
RE: Primary Oil change question
An even quart makes it pretty simple. The milkyness could just be a little condensation. Watch for it next time you drain the oil. You'll get some fines and shavings mostly on the magnetic drain plug when you drain the oil. Nothing to be concerned about. Just clean the plug before reinstalling it.
Banned
Joined: Jul 2005
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RE: Primary Oil change question
Go ahead and pull the clutch cover to add the oil. No big deal, it just has a o-ring to seal it. It is no big deal to reseat the o-ring if it gets out of it's seat. It is a good time to just give quik "look see" at things in there! especially if you have some of the questions you seem to have about the oil etc. Piece of cake.
ORIGINAL: MuddyXL
It calls for an even quart. What could be simpler than drain it and add a quart? Besides, it looks like there's things that could go wrong by pulling the clutch cover. I think I'll leave mine alone.
Another question. When I drained the transmission oil it looked a bit milky as if it had some water in it and the oil was grey with very fine metal dust (no chunks). Is that norml? The bike hasn't been ridden in the rain or even subjected to a car wash wand, is just now at 1,000 miles so I'm at a loss as to when or how any water found it's way into the tranny. Should I be alarmed?
It calls for an even quart. What could be simpler than drain it and add a quart? Besides, it looks like there's things that could go wrong by pulling the clutch cover. I think I'll leave mine alone.
Another question. When I drained the transmission oil it looked a bit milky as if it had some water in it and the oil was grey with very fine metal dust (no chunks). Is that norml? The bike hasn't been ridden in the rain or even subjected to a car wash wand, is just now at 1,000 miles so I'm at a loss as to when or how any water found it's way into the tranny. Should I be alarmed?
2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2005
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RE: Primary Oil change question
Usually it takes 28 ounces to fill to the proper level. Only way to tell is pull the cover and stand the bike up straight and fill to the proper level. I have always used Sport-Trans with good results. The milky oil comes from not getting the oil hot enough to burn off the condensation.
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