Engine dying.
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 333
Likes: 1
From: Texas
Engine dying.
This has happened a few times now. I'm in Delaware so the temperatures haven't been exactly high. When I test-rode the bike at the dealership it died out a couple times while idling and they said it was normal because it's carbeurated and it was only about 45 out. It's done it to me a few times since then. I'll let it warm up for about 5 minutes or so, obviously with the choke in, and then I'll give it throttle and it'll die out. It's kinda embarrassing. It doesn't happen all the time but just it happening bothers me. It chuggs every so often when I'm in 5th doing around 50, mostly when I'm riding into the wind. And now yesterday I was riding at about 25 mph and the temps were around 45 and I was riding in second gear, I squeezed the clutch in and the bike just died out. I restarted it while I was rolling but it was kinda freaky. Any thoughts? Could it be that the engine is adjusted for warm weather and it's too cold for it? I read somewhere on here that stock bikes run too lean for EPA and that it needs to be adjusted. If that could solve the problem how would I go about doing that?
Thanks a mil everyone.
Thanks a mil everyone.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,183
Likes: 1
From: Graham, NC
RE: Engine dying.
Before you go changing anything, I would let it idle for several minutes until the rockerboxes feel warm to the touch, then try it again. If it is still dying out after the engine is warm, then yes.. look into the carb. Unfortunately, the stock carb is not adjustable (except idle RPM) unless you or the previous owner has drilled out the plug over the idle mix screw.
Once you are sure that it is simply a fuel mixture problem, follow these directions:
https://www.hdforums.com/m_190110/tm.htm
Once you are sure that it is simply a fuel mixture problem, follow these directions:
https://www.hdforums.com/m_190110/tm.htm
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 333
Likes: 1
From: Texas
RE: Engine dying.
I read through that a little bit and this part caught my attention. "By increasing the size of the slow jet, you are automatically making the idle mixture richer, and the factory setting is often pretty close. Idle performance is usually adequate. The sign that it isn't is an occasional stumble when the throttle is applied at idle. The author encourages you to "do it right" and perform this step if possible."
That occasional stumble is exactly whats happening with mine right before I try to ride off after warming it up. After I'm on the road and running a while everything is fine and when I pull up to a stop light and burrap it a little bit it doesn't seem to stumble like that. So maybe I'm just not warming it up long enough? I let it warm-up until the forward head cooling fins are warm to the back of my gloved hand, is that adequate or should I let it warm up longer?
That occasional stumble is exactly whats happening with mine right before I try to ride off after warming it up. After I'm on the road and running a while everything is fine and when I pull up to a stop light and burrap it a little bit it doesn't seem to stumble like that. So maybe I'm just not warming it up long enough? I let it warm-up until the forward head cooling fins are warm to the back of my gloved hand, is that adequate or should I let it warm up longer?
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,146
Likes: 50
From: A barrier island in NJ
RE: Engine dying.
I assume you bought the bike new? If so, what you are experiencing could be caused by the lean running setup as delivered from the factory. The idle mixture screw is a good place to start but the real answer is a Stage 1 to open up the breathing and exhaust.
I had similar problems to yours and they "magically" disappearedonce I completed break-in and did the Stage 1. The engine warms up much faster, no longer stumbles or stalls, andruns much better now that it is able to breathe.
I had similar problems to yours and they "magically" disappearedonce I completed break-in and did the Stage 1. The engine warms up much faster, no longer stumbles or stalls, andruns much better now that it is able to breathe.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,183
Likes: 1
From: Graham, NC
RE: Engine dying.
ORIGINAL: Thumper26
If so, what you are experiencing could be caused by the lean running setup as delivered from the factory. The idle mixture screw is a good place to start but the real answer is a Stage 1 to open up the breathing and exhaust.
If so, what you are experiencing could be caused by the lean running setup as delivered from the factory. The idle mixture screw is a good place to start but the real answer is a Stage 1 to open up the breathing and exhaust.
Fatten up the mixture with the idle mix screw (after drilling plug) and that may help some. Like Thump said, just do a stage 1 after you get comfortable with the bike and the problem will definately go away. Plus you'll pick up a few more ponies too.
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 333
Likes: 1
From: Texas
RE: Engine dying.
Yeah I've been wanting that Stage 1 anyway. But no it's not new, it's past break-in. It had 5200 when I bought it and now it's over 5500. But I'm gonna look into the Stage 1 a little further.
*Edit* For a Stage 1 upgrade do I just go to a dealership and say I want Stage 1?
*Edit* For a Stage 1 upgrade do I just go to a dealership and say I want Stage 1?
Trending Topics
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,146
Likes: 50
From: A barrier island in NJ
RE: Engine dying.
ORIGINAL: Kski
Yeah I've been wanting that Stage 1 anyway. But no it's not new, it's past break-in. It had 5200 when I bought it and now it's over 5500. But I'm gonna look into the Stage 1 a little further.
*Edit* For a Stage 1 upgrade do I just go to a dealership and say I want Stage 1?
Yeah I've been wanting that Stage 1 anyway. But no it's not new, it's past break-in. It had 5200 when I bought it and now it's over 5500. But I'm gonna look into the Stage 1 a little further.
*Edit* For a Stage 1 upgrade do I just go to a dealership and say I want Stage 1?
Do you have the stock mufflers? Has the little tin cover been removed from the idle mixture screw on the carb? The following is good information on the Sportster engine, and will providesome help in finding this idle-mixture screw if you're not familiar with it:
http://www.harley-performance.com/ha...arburetor.html
Do some reading up and check back with us. Stage 1 is generally well within the average guy's ability to do, and you will save some big bucks as well.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From:
RE: Engine dying.
My bike was dying out in a similar fashion. I took it to an Indy, who promptly pulled the fuel line off the hi-flow petcock to see if it was having an issue there. None. If flowed like a fawcet. Next he pulled the line off the carb side. It was trickleing there. Solution- kink in the fuel line between the petcock and the carb. Cost-$3 bucks for the line, $20 for his time.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,183
Likes: 1
From: Graham, NC
RE: Engine dying.
ORIGINAL: Kski
*Edit* For a Stage 1 upgrade do I just go to a dealership and say I want Stage 1?
*Edit* For a Stage 1 upgrade do I just go to a dealership and say I want Stage 1?
Stage 1 is a fancy term for exhaust, air cleaner, and re-jet/re-map.
Since your bike is carb'ed, get the exhaust of your choice (anything from slip-on performance mufflers to a full exhaust), a performance air cleaner (I like the Arlen Ness, others like K&N, Screamin' Eagle, PowerPacc, etc.), and a jet kit.
You'll need basic hand tools and about 2 to 3 hours worth of tinkering. You'll need a drill to get the idle mix plug out. I recommend taking the carb completely off the bike, so you'll need a small hose clamp to reconnect the fuel line to the petcock.... he he ... petcock... he he (Sorry, I get distracted) The factory clamp has to be pried apart and cannot be reused.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
