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I'm trying to get the baffles out of my SE II slip ons so I can redrill the holes. Give me a little more sound. I removed the screws \\;but they refuse to come out. I'd like to avoid pulling the slip ons off and hitting them out.
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Anyone know any tricks for a baffle-ectomy?
Well, used to be, once you got the screws out, you had to rotate them so far to get them to come out. \\;I have no idea about today's version, however. \\;But, it's worth a shot.
I tried using a wire hanger. I made a short sharp hook at the end of the hanger then stuck it into the baffle. No luck. I think the real problem is I cant find anything to grab the baffle with that has enough grab power. Considering I got these slip on's for free, I'm tempted to replace them with something that has more sound and avoid the baffle issue.
I have been told they can be hard to get out. I'm in the same boat you are.I like the sound at low rpm but when you get in to it hard the sound just tails off. I'm just not sure what to do right now. \\;I hope someone will come on and give us advice on how \\;to get the baffles out. I'm thinking we may need to take off the slip-ons... good luck. \\;
 \\;They can get pretty stuck in there, I always take the \\;mufflers off to do it, I use a little carb cleaner \\;between the baffles and the body \\;to melt the carbon out, (this might also work with them on the bike also), \\;once they are off just put a piece of 2x6 on the ground \\;and \\;take the muffler and bang it point first into the the 2x6, it knocks the baffle out everytime and the 2x6 prevents the tip of the \\;muffler from getting dented. \\; \\; \\; \\;
Attached are pictures:
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1. \\;\\\\\\; Get a pair of vise grips. \\;\\\\\\; Just inside the baffle is a little lip that you can lock the vice grips on to.
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2. \\;\\\\\\; Get a channel lock or other large pliers, hold them at right angles tot he vise grips and grasp the vise grips loosely with the jaws of the channel lock attached right below the head of the adjustment screw on the vise grip
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3. \\;\\\\\\; Use a hammer to tap lightly, then harder on the channel locks. \\;\\\\\\; The baffles should come right out.
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The picture is shown with the baffle out, but gives an idea of how to hook up.
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Picture:
 \\;
If you click on the red X, the picture will open for you. \\; \\; The forums a little screwed up for some reason.
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Attached are pictures:
 \\;\\\\\\;\\\\\\\\\\\\\\;
1. \\;\\\\\\;\\\\\\\\\\\\\\; Get a pair of vise grips. \\;\\\\\\;\\\\\\\\\\\\\\; Just inside the baffle is a little lip that you can lock the vice grips on to.
 \\;\\\\\\;\\\\\\\\\\\\\\;
2. \\;\\\\\\;\\\\\\\\\\\\\\; Get a channel lock or other large pliers, hold them at right angles tot he vise grips and grasp the vise grips loosely with the jaws of the channel lock attached right below the head of the adjustment screw on the vise grip
 \\;\\\\\\;\\\\\\\\\\\\\\;
3. \\;\\\\\\;\\\\\\\\\\\\\\; Use a hammer to tap lightly, then harder on the channel locks. \\;\\\\\\;\\\\\\\\\\\\\\; The baffles should come right out.
 \\;\\\\\\;\\\\\\\\\\\\\\;
The picture is shown with the baffle out, but gives an idea of how to hook up.
 \\;\\\\\\;\\\\\\\\\\\\\\;
Picture:
 \\;\\\\\\;
If you click on the red X, the picture will open for you. \\;\\\\\\; \\;\\\\\\; The forums a little screwed up for some reason.
 \\;\\\\\\;\\\\\\\\\\\\\\;
 \\;\\\\\\;\\\\\\\\\\\\\\;
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I'll take pictures of the inside of my pipes and post them. Someone made this suggestion in the past. I don't see a lip within the pipe to grab onto. Would you run the bike for a few minutes to heat up the pipes? Might this make it easier for them to come out?
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Before I even go through this exercis, my plan is to drill out the existing holes in the baffle. I don't want to run without baffles. Should I expect to hear a noticable change in sound after this is done? If not, maybe the answer is shopping for a new set of slip ons on eBay.
I have attached a picture of the inside of the baffle I removed. \\; There is a little lip about a half inch in, where the main part of the baffle is attached to the flare or bell that seals against the ID of the slip on.
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Maybe they don't all have this do to manufacturing variences, and I was just lucky
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