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The rubber piece should be wedged between the swingarm and the brake anchor bracket near the front so it doesn't rattle. take the rear master cylinder cover off and push the caliper piston all the way into the caliper, reassemble and pump the rear brake until you get solid pressure, adjust the level in the MC and put the cap back on.
If your brake is still hanging up, remove the piston from the caliper, clean the seal ring groove out really good, put a new seal ring in, coat the piston with brake fluid and put it back in. Start over. if it's *still* hanging up you may have a bad brake line or the master cylinder bleed back port is blocked.
ok found out what the rubber part was too. It went in between the right side swing-arm and the belt cover. Problem is I still have a lot of shaking on the front part of my bike. Also, the back brake moved a little smoother (musta been riding back brake) but for some reason the brake light is still on. Is that mean its the caliper?? Could that be the reason the front is shaking???
If you have a bike jack, lift the bike and spin the wheel by hand and check if it seems to be dragging. Not sure of the whole story here, was the front end shaking before you started this work? May just need to bleed the rear brakes, a while back my rear brakes and switch didn't work, the problem was some air in the line, bled the air out and took care of the problems. If you don't have Speed Bleeders yet, I hightly recommend them.
the front did not shake at all before I changed the tires but the brake light had been staying on. I remember cause my buddy had asked why it was on. The back brake does drag but i know its supposed to some because the pads are on the roter and not hooked up to the caliper like a car is. What could have caused air to get into the brake line??
is the lever depressed?even if the caliper stuck the brake light shouldn't be on.pull up on the lever and see if it goes off.then check the brake light switch
Some tires don't run well on some bikes. Did you put the same kind on? Did you get the rear wheel aligned correctly? That can cause shake. I always count turns on the adjusters so I can get the wheel back to where it was. Is the tire mounted properly and the bead seated? Did you balance it? Even static balance helps.
Air can get into lines if the banjo bolt are turned. The aluminum crush washers are not as good as the copper ones for keeping air out, but I don't think it has anything to do with your problem.
Did you check the front lever to see if that is why your light stays on? Don't know your bike, but on earlier bikes the handle had to keep a switch depressed or the light would go on.
A lot of do-do, I know. I'm just offering thoughts.
Make sure the shop that did your tire re-balanced it and didn't **** up your true by dropping the rim, etc. Some of those jackasses can get kinda rough with stuff sometimes. Also, make sure they didn't put a rear tire on as your new front or vice versa....they ARE different.
Try and do a fall-away adjustment. And make sure everything is torqued to spec. Another area most shops tend to NOT pay attention.
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