help please gotta carb problem
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help please gotta carb problem
i have a 2001 xl1200c its new to me this season. it had a k&n hi-flo air filter and stock pipes with screaming eagle slip on's when i got it. ran great i didnt think to ask if it was re-jetted or not..... i changed the pipes to drag with no baffles ....... now it runs like crap when its cold spits and sputters when its warmed up runs ok but has lost power when im going 60 if i pull the choke out takes off and runs better.... looks like i gotta re-jet how do i know what size jets to get and how hard of a job is this? is this a do it yourself job or do i have to pay those big bucks for a shop? any links to a site or videos to help me? thanks guys and ride safe
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2006
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First off, it'd be a good idea to stick with baffles in the exhaust, open drags really will only benefit you at wide open throttle. Also eliminating the stock exhaust crossover tube will roughen things up a bit as well. Anyhow for rejetting, there's a number of threads regarding rejetting, just use the search. But most common jet combo would be a 45 pilot, 180 main. But first thing you'll need to do is pull the carb and see what's in there to begin with. May also consider shimming up the needle. it'll be a bit of trial and error with trying new jets and finding the best combination that works for you.
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From: fegfsg
if you remove the 4 screws under the carb that hold the float bowl on, you will see both jets right there with easy access, they unscrew with a simple flat bladed screwdriver, bring them to your dealer and ask the parts guy for the next size up on both, then re install, with the bigger jet being your main, and see how it runs. pretty simple. a small amount of gas will be in the float and if your petcock is off, no more will come out, and when you put it back together give the carb a few seconds to refill the bowl.
hope this helps tried to make it as easy to understand as possible and there are LOTS of sites with pics and stuff to help,
hope this helps tried to make it as easy to understand as possible and there are LOTS of sites with pics and stuff to help,
its a 1200,,I run 185-190's in my 883.
Start with 190's,,likely work up to 200's,,depends what the elevation is and the air density.
what needle is in it?
if its a 165c you can likely goto a 30 thou shim,,but only try one thing at a time,,dont change a ton of stuff all at once.
Pilot jet should be a 145-148.
Start with 190's,,likely work up to 200's,,depends what the elevation is and the air density.
what needle is in it?
if its a 165c you can likely goto a 30 thou shim,,but only try one thing at a time,,dont change a ton of stuff all at once.
Pilot jet should be a 145-148.
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Wheeling, WV
You said it ran like crap after going to the drags with no baffles......Guess what, you need to throw a set of baffles back in so you have some back pressure and it will probably quit running crappy. 
Road Warrior
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From: Heart of Dixie
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ya but baffles make it to quiet i love it when my neighbors can hear me coming a mile away i would rather try jetting the carb than going back to baffles
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Open Drag Pipes
If you can get the carb to stop spitting and so-on at low speed, it will be all messed up at the top end.
The problem is reversion, which is caused by un-tuned open pipes. The solution is obvious, which is to use some baffling to break up the shock waves. It is not "back pressure" in the exhaust that the engine needs, but a control of the reflected shock waves.
You can pay all you want to have someone mess around with jetting. The jetting is good. The exhaust is screwed up. Nothing you do to the jetting is going to change the problem with the exhaust system.
Eventually you'll find a how-to-do-it thread on lolly-pops. They'll help, but open drag pipes will always perform worse than baffled exhaust except at the very top end, somewhere above 4500 rpm.
It seems that everyone attracted to the noise of drag pipes has to learn this lesson on their own. That's been true for at least 40 years, and I doubt that human nature is going to change any time soon.
The problem is reversion, which is caused by un-tuned open pipes. The solution is obvious, which is to use some baffling to break up the shock waves. It is not "back pressure" in the exhaust that the engine needs, but a control of the reflected shock waves.
You can pay all you want to have someone mess around with jetting. The jetting is good. The exhaust is screwed up. Nothing you do to the jetting is going to change the problem with the exhaust system.
Eventually you'll find a how-to-do-it thread on lolly-pops. They'll help, but open drag pipes will always perform worse than baffled exhaust except at the very top end, somewhere above 4500 rpm.
It seems that everyone attracted to the noise of drag pipes has to learn this lesson on their own. That's been true for at least 40 years, and I doubt that human nature is going to change any time soon.