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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 09:37 PM
  #21  
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From: Landrum, SC , elevation 986'
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Cycle Electric still has the highest rating in OEM type stators (that I can find) Higher amps at idle etc..

2 CE-9100 29967-89 91-UP Sportster MAX amps- 22 / 1000rpms - 12 amps / 2500rpms - 20amps
 
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 09:39 PM
  #22  
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I've confirmed that that is the correct p/n for your bike. I am guessing that since everything else HD of that vintage (at least the Dyna & Softail) use 32 amp systems, Accel is just using the same design and electronic components for simplicity. And yes, that Series regulator should keep the stator coils cooler because of the lower coil load.

BTW: just counted, 18 Tabs open here...
 
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 09:45 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by xFreebirdx
Cycle Electric still has the highest rating in OEM type stators (that I can find) Higher amps at idle etc..

2 CE-9100 29967-89 91-UP Sportster MAX amps- 22 / 1000rpms - 12 amps / 2500rpms - 20amps
If you look on their site under Alternator Kits, p/n CE-69S, they make a stator/regulator/rotor kit for your bike that's - 17 amps@1000 / 38 amps@2500.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 09:48 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by cHarley
I've confirmed that that is the correct p/n for your bike. I am guessing that since everything else HD of that vintage (at least the Dyna & Softail) use 32 amp systems, Accel is just using the same design and electronic components for simplicity. And yes, that Series regulator should keep the stator coils cooler because of the lower coil load.

BTW: just counted, 18 Tabs open here...

Makes yuh wonder how a 38amp or variable amp rotor would go with that stator. OR would the stock rotor handle it.
There is soooo many grey areas on this ****.



LMAO, I said fock it and closed em all. Well that was afer e-mailing the necessary pages to myself. (pffffftsmiley)
 
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 09:51 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by cHarley
If you look on their site under Alternator Kits, p/n CE-69S, they make a stator/regulator/rotor kit for your bike that's - 17 amps@1000 / 38 amps@2500.
$499 is the cheapest I can find $449 if you spend $59 and join their club.

I haven't looked on ebay yet. Cause I wanted to get some parts nailed down before I went for the big disappointment. lol
 
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 09:55 PM
  #26  
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another benefit of ridding yourself of that damned shunt regulator is this: jump starts from anything making 12-ish volts.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 10:01 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by xFreebirdx
Makes yuh wonder how a 38amp or variable amp rotor would go with that stator. OR would the stock rotor handle it.
There is soooo many grey areas on this ****.




LMAO, I said fock it and closed em all. Well that was afer e-mailing the necessary pages to myself. (pffffftsmiley)
The rotor is just a disk with a set of magnets matched to the stator. The stator will generate X amount of maximum power (amps). The regulator needs to be of equal to or greater than, the amp output of the stator. If the regulator is rated smaller than the stator it will blow just like a fuse does if it's too small.

Goodnight, I'm outa here for now ........
 
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 06:54 PM
  #28  
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From: Landrum, SC , elevation 986'
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Well I went with the CE 22 amp setup, Stator and Regulator. That dam Accel Regulator in black is a no show till 09/17/10. I could of got it in chrome.....but Naaaaa.

And I'm tired of walking, so to speak.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2010 | 02:37 PM
  #29  
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Thanks guys, replaced the stator, rotor and the regulator this weekend use 22amp stuff. Would have been eazy if I had a lift.
 
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