Preloading 1200C front end
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Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,377
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From: Kafar Hanusi
Preloading 1200C front end
Et al,
Looking to raise my 1200C front end.
I have not disassembled anything yet but if I understand the layout correctly I can add a spacer to the top of the main spring just under the filler cap to preload the spring, is this correct?
Anyone done this?
your thoughts welcome.
Dave
Looking to raise my 1200C front end.
I have not disassembled anything yet but if I understand the layout correctly I can add a spacer to the top of the main spring just under the filler cap to preload the spring, is this correct?
Anyone done this?
your thoughts welcome.
Dave
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 16,320
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From: Boynton Beach, FloriDuh
That's only going to raise the front end if your springs are weak and sagging. It will however give you a firmer ride.
If there's any tube left on top, you can loosen the triple tree pinch bolts and slide the tubes down in the trees.
If there's any tube left on top, you can loosen the triple tree pinch bolts and slide the tubes down in the trees.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,007
Likes: 126
From: Manassas, VA
I used 1" PVC and a washer between it and the spring. Rough length with a saw then mitre gauge and disc sander for true 90 degree ends. Deburred and eased over the edges with some 400 grit. I made 3 different length sets at once.
Nice project. Kept me out of trouble all night.
Nice project. Kept me out of trouble all night.
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,077
Likes: 1,601
Preloading the spring won't lift the front very much. It does help w/ brake dive and bottoming which is why I did mine. Sliding the fork tubes down in the triples is probably going to give you just as much lift as the spacers. Doing both might net you 1" if you're lucky.
Also, w/ spacers on top the caps can be a bit of a bear to get back on. It can be done by hand but it aint fun. Be careful when you remove them as well as they are under spring pressure and will pop off when you get to the last thread.
Also, w/ spacers on top the caps can be a bit of a bear to get back on. It can be done by hand but it aint fun. Be careful when you remove them as well as they are under spring pressure and will pop off when you get to the last thread.
Road Captain
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 606
Likes: 2
Its hard to do with stock springs.
Easy with the progressive springs tho, I eliminated about 2 inches of sag, and pushed the forks down an inch till the caps are flush with the top of the clamps.
That allowed me to go from 11.6 to 13 inch rear shocks without odd stuff happening...
Brett
Easy with the progressive springs tho, I eliminated about 2 inches of sag, and pushed the forks down an inch till the caps are flush with the top of the clamps.
That allowed me to go from 11.6 to 13 inch rear shocks without odd stuff happening...
Brett
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,377
Likes: 20
From: Kafar Hanusi
Update: Thanks for the great ideas but... the next question
Its hard to do with stock springs.
Easy with the progressive springs tho, I eliminated about 2 inches of sag, and pushed the forks down an inch till the caps are flush with the top of the clamps.
That allowed me to go from 11.6 to 13 inch rear shocks without odd stuff happening...
Brett
Easy with the progressive springs tho, I eliminated about 2 inches of sag, and pushed the forks down an inch till the caps are flush with the top of the clamps.
That allowed me to go from 11.6 to 13 inch rear shocks without odd stuff happening...
Brett
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,599
Likes: 11
From: Colonial Beach, Virginia
David, I put Progressive fork springs in my 2007 1200C, they came with 3" pvc spacers and a steel washer to go between the spacer and the spring. I used the spacers at their full 3". With the bike front wheel well off the floor some of the spacer was still above the fork tube. I palmed a ratchet in one had, held the fork tube with the other and was just man enough to get the thread started, I turned it a full turn before releasing the pressure on the ratchet. The Progressive fork springs and Progressive 13.5" 440 shocks are a perfect combination.
Last edited by 1200Cdriver; Oct 1, 2010 at 10:59 AM.
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Club Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 16,320
Likes: 306
From: Boynton Beach, FloriDuh
Gents, With regards to the preloading issue, I managed to open the pinch bolts and lower the front forks to the top of the caps (gave about 5/8"), tried to preload 1" PVC with washer but how do you stuff the springs and all the other parts back into the tubes??? Major problem which I could not solve.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,007
Likes: 126
From: Manassas, VA
I used the special socket and a regular ratchet. I do have the Progressive brand progressive springs. They're worth every penny. Wound up using 3 1/2" spacers and 11 oz of Screamin' Eagle fork oil. Major improvement. Brake dive went away. I'm about 210 lbs. Progressive 11 1/2" rear shocks.