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.480 is stock , anit worth it...no "lobe" effect , plus the .497 is not a bolt in for your year.. but hey what do i know...my .575 cams come in at 3500 rpm to 7000 rpm ..
I would love to see a dyno run of your bike. Most guys run the .536 or .575 with 10.5:1 compression which gives them no more power than stock below 5000rpm. Thats just not enough compression for as much overlap as those cams have. With your decked heads and 10.5:1 pistons giving you 11.3:1 compression you should probably have a pretty nice fat midrange.
I would love to see a dyno run of your bike. Most guys run the .536 or .575 with 10.5:1 compression which gives them no more power than stock below 5000rpm. Thats just not enough compression for as much overlap as those cams have. With your decked heads and 10.5:1 pistons giving you 11.3:1 compression you should probably have a pretty nice fat midrange.
gonna have another dyno run when its done with the break in period..but have a sound clip on youtube (PAsportster)
these cams are bolt ons
.551
.536
.575
with the compression of 11.3:1 , thought be had to start but not at all , happy i didnt have to use a compression release $$$...
gonna have another dyno run when its done with the break in period..but have a sound clip on youtube (PAsportster)
these cams are bolt ons
.551
.536
.575
with the compression of 11.3:1 , thought be had to start but not at all , happy i didnt have to use a compression release $$$...
I had to stick with the 496's for when I swap over to alcohol. A bigger cam causes my intake to start icing up. The swap to alcohol is fairly easy not having to change cams.
For running gas I get by with 93 octane just fine. With good solid numbers, upper 90's hp and lower 90's torque.
Once I started tuning my octane (mixing my own fuel) rating to my compression ratio is when my motor really came alive. When I want to play I run about a 100+ octane. For a 11.1 like yours, 104+ is recommended.
I gain about 10hp /10ftlbs on the top with alcohol. The motor runs a lot cooler too.
i just installed .551 on my 48 and they really only come in after 3.5k rpm...but you can definitely feel them.
I spoke with Dan at NRHS and he said the the .497s might have been a better choice since they are a little quieter, but I'm happy.
I will say one thing, if you want low end torque, change your front pulley while you are at it...go with a 28 or 27tooth...I'm waiting on the 28 as I type since the european sporties come with a 30t.
i just installed .551 on my 48 and they really only come in after 3.5k rpm...but you can definitely feel them.
I spoke with Dan at NRHS and he said the the .497s might have been a better choice since they are a little quieter, but I'm happy.
I will say one thing, if you want low end torque, change your front pulley while you are at it...go with a 28 or 27tooth...I'm waiting on the 28 as I type since the european sporties come with a 30t.
Let us know how it goes,
L
Will your speedometer read correctly after changing the pulley?
That wont reall matter, I rarely do the speed limit. Thanks for the info! Sent an e-mail to NHRS and I have yet to hear back. I sent an e-mail to Zippers, and I got an immediate response. Sent him my info and what was currently changed on the bike. I hope I get a good response, and what my budget will have to be.
As far as the pulley, does that drop your RPM's? What does that do to your gear ratio? I don't shift into 5th until 55 as it is right now. Anything lower and it feels like the bike is struggling.
I will not make any radical changes until I get a few more opinions on the EFI's, changes that people have made, and what I can do. Last thing I want is a money pit. Will post changes as they happen....don't hold yer breath it will be a while.
I just realized that the time is always 6 hours ahead, where the heck is this server out of?
The speedo will be off. according to someone on another forum, the way to calculate that in this particular case is 28/30=0.933.
1-0.933=0.067
so the reading will be decreased by 6.7%
I have a dakota digital, so I'll be able to adjust the reading so that it is pretty much correct, at least I hope so.
Well I sent an e-mail to Zippers and NRHS, got a reply form Zipper's. They state I need some stock 883 heads. I am assuming these need to be EFI. Made a new thread addressing this question as well. Why cant they use my 1200 heads(EFI) off my nightster? Course if they have to be 883 EFI heads it would be good that I could get all the parts and have them done and then proceed to modify when I am ready for the bike to be down a week.(now is good, but yet...no) Now would be good, but I got a home project to finish first.
Where in Z heck could you find a pair of 883 EFI heads, and why wouldnt 1200 efi heads work just as well? I want to know......!
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