Fallaway
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,212
Likes: 212
I think he's talking about steering fallaway.
I did mine recently and found it was really hard to get the bike balanced up on the lift to do it properly. I just tightened to the point I felt the steering was okay. I think it was about hand tight plus one full turn or so. Not really sure. It works fine though, and I've had to 70mph since with no problems.
Just make sure it's not too loose that it is wobbly, and not so tight you can't move it. You may have to feel around with it a little. It's easy to make sure everything is tightened down and not too tight. It will either wobble (too loose) or not move much (too tight). Find a nice sweet spot somewhere in the middle.
I did mine recently and found it was really hard to get the bike balanced up on the lift to do it properly. I just tightened to the point I felt the steering was okay. I think it was about hand tight plus one full turn or so. Not really sure. It works fine though, and I've had to 70mph since with no problems.
Just make sure it's not too loose that it is wobbly, and not so tight you can't move it. You may have to feel around with it a little. It's easy to make sure everything is tightened down and not too tight. It will either wobble (too loose) or not move much (too tight). Find a nice sweet spot somewhere in the middle.
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,167
Likes: 20
From: NE Pennsylvania
When I originally installed the bearings, I snugged them up fairly tight. According to the HD shop manual, the proper stem torque is determined by adjusting the "fall away".
You basically raise the front wheel off the ground, face the bars straight ahead and fashion a pointer which is aimed at the center of the front fender. You would then gently tap or push the wheel to the side and make note of where the front end swings freely to the side. You do this in each direction. The total distance between the "fall away" points should be between 1-3". The other manual I have states the following --
fork stem bolt, then retighten to 84
You basically raise the front wheel off the ground, face the bars straight ahead and fashion a pointer which is aimed at the center of the front fender. You would then gently tap or push the wheel to the side and make note of where the front end swings freely to the side. You do this in each direction. The total distance between the "fall away" points should be between 1-3". The other manual I have states the following --
Bearing cups must be firmly seated against the shoulders
in the bore. If they are not, the steering head adjustment
will become loose and adversely affect the vehicle’s
handling which could result in death or serious injury.
2. Liberally coat the bearing cones (3) with grease. Work
the grease into the rollers.
3. Place lower bearing dust shield (2) over fork stem. Find a
section of pipe having an inside diameter slightly larger
than the outside diameter of the fork stem. Press bearing
cone (3) onto fork stem and bracket (1) using the pipe as
a press on tool.
4. Insert fork stem and bracket (1) through the steering
head. Install bearing cone (3) and dust shield (5) onto
the stem.
5. Install the upper bracket (6) including the handlebar
assembly and loosely install fork stem bolt (9) with
washer (8).
6. Install fork assemblies (13). See INSTALLATION under
2.15 FRONT FORK.
7. Tighten fork stem bolt (9) to 15 ft-lbs (20.4 Nm). Loosen
in the bore. If they are not, the steering head adjustment
will become loose and adversely affect the vehicle’s
handling which could result in death or serious injury.
2. Liberally coat the bearing cones (3) with grease. Work
the grease into the rollers.
3. Place lower bearing dust shield (2) over fork stem. Find a
section of pipe having an inside diameter slightly larger
than the outside diameter of the fork stem. Press bearing
cone (3) onto fork stem and bracket (1) using the pipe as
a press on tool.
4. Insert fork stem and bracket (1) through the steering
head. Install bearing cone (3) and dust shield (5) onto
the stem.
5. Install the upper bracket (6) including the handlebar
assembly and loosely install fork stem bolt (9) with
washer (8).
6. Install fork assemblies (13). See INSTALLATION under
2.15 FRONT FORK.
7. Tighten fork stem bolt (9) to 15 ft-lbs (20.4 Nm). Loosen
fork stem bolt, then retighten to 84
in-lbs (9.5 Nm).
8. Tighten the fork stem clamp screw (7).
8. Tighten the fork stem clamp screw (7).
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,212
Likes: 212
Gilmour is right. The hard part is I could never get my bike level. It would always fall to one side no matter what, even after using the adjusters on the stand. So I just made sure it was tight and not binding. There is a pretty big range where it will be okay if not EXACTLY to spec. Just remember that if your steering doesn't feel right to go back in and readjust it.
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 512
Likes: 0
From: Utah
Its a crap shoot. There are so many variables that can effect the outcome. I wish they would give a torque spec or something fool proof. Reminds me of.................. Its kind of a feel thing..............
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