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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 06:03 AM
  #11  
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hey, thanks joe, great tutorial. I'll have to look into that. I'm already ahead of the curve on wiring though, my bike is an '87 and the main wiring harness up the spine of the bike is about the size of my pinky. I'm still waiting to hear back from a couple people about what drilling holes will do to my frame, so I may be doing something more along the lines of what you're doing.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Bulldogextreme
Wow JoeBo that's real insiteful Looks like I got a summer hobby now ^.^ not meaning to hijack this but how did you move your ignition so close to the battery if you can PM the how too if you've done one that'll be cool
Hey Bulldog... I used a 1.5'' x 1.5'' L shaped bracket from the hardware store.. I attached it to the rear of the primary case using the nut that secures the ground cable to the engine... here is a picture from the rear:

Warning... if your FOB key is attached to your iginition key then the FOb key is going to be hitting / rattling because is going to be resting on the primary case... so you should get a longer L bracket (perhaps 2 x 2) and cut it to meet your needs.. I hope this helps...

 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 07:31 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by bmxatv
you never cease to amaze me joebots!
thanks bro!.. I am having too much fun with these mods!..
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 01:03 PM
  #14  
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If you do plan on running all the wires inside the frame you better know how to read and rewrite a wiring diagram. I don't think it takes a degree to do it tho. I is a stupid jarhead, and was able to figure it out. I was worried about drilling the frame but tried to drill in places that really seem to have no structural support of the bike. For the wires coming off of the fuse panel I drilled up into the bottom of the back bone where it comes out down by the rubber mount. It was a pain, and I had to use a drimel and a lot of bits because of the clearance issues, but there is already a hole there to start with. As for the ones going to the ECM and rear lights, just careful positioning between the oil tank, battery, and "kidneys" does the trick. I did have to lengthen a few to get them routed the way I wanted. The only one I'm worried about is the 1" hole I drilled into the top of the backbone under the tank where all the wires for the controls come out. If the frame ends up cracking it will be there. There is also a lot of lengthening and soldering that goes into doing this. I left the harness for the FI alone, and will be the only wires visible when it is done. It looks very clean. If the frame does end up cracking then I guess I have a reason to give the wife why I bought a ridgid frame. Haha.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 01:57 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by joebotics
Hey Bulldog... I used a 1.5'' x 1.5'' L shaped bracket from ....
Awesome....
Thanks going to add that to the long list of mods you and MReed have given me ^.^
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 03:37 PM
  #16  
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Whenever you drill any frame you need to reinforce it around the holes drilled. Take a washer with the same inside diameter as the hole you are drilling and weld the washer around the hole . That way it can never crack ..
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 03:49 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by markdt
Whenever you drill any frame you need to reinforce it around the holes drilled. Take a washer with the same inside diameter as the hole you are drilling and weld the washer around the hole . That way it can never crack ..
Crack is Whack!!
 
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 06:32 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by bmxatv
cosmo is a friggen electrical engineer i think
Engineer I am....Electrical I am NOT! I hated my circuits class! But thanks for the kind words BMX.

Just wanted to jump on here really quick and give my $0.02 for anyone considering doing this.

Originally Posted by veritas_man
If you do plan on running all the wires inside the frame you better know how to read and rewrite a wiring diagram..I don't think it takes a degree to do it tho. I is a stupid jarhead, and was able to figure it out.
I agree with VM here...knowing your way around a wiring schematic is critical. They are fairly easy to understand....and he is right...don't need a degree to understand them for sure.

BTW...thank you for your service to our country VM!




Originally Posted by veritas_man
I was worried about drilling the frame but tried to drill in places that really seem to have no structural support of the bike. The only one I'm worried about is the 1" hole I drilled into the top of the backbone under the tank where all the wires for the controls come out.
Sound advice. I did mine a little differently as I drilled two holes about 5/8" in diameter where the backbone slides inside another tube that the neck is welded too...so the tube is twice the normal wall thickness in that area. I also drilled past where the the two tubes are puddle welded together (you can see the dimple from the puddle weld just to the right of my holes).

You also want to make sure you remove any sharp edges in those holes with a dremel or file and protect the wires as they come out of any hole in the frame.



Here is the clutch side of the bike where the following wires come out for the speedo, indicator strip, headlight and turn signals:



This is the throttle side of the bike where all the wires for the controls on the handlebars come ouf of the frame:
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 07:56 AM
  #19  
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hey cosmo....glad you took the time to join. great community here like xlforums and everyone is very helpful. you gotta post a pic of your bike though so everyone can see how smooth and clean that thing is! welcome to the hood!
 
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 06:19 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by markdt
Whenever you drill any frame you need to reinforce it around the holes drilled. Take a washer with the same inside diameter as the hole you are drilling and weld the washer around the hole . That way it can never crack ..
That's a great idea, I think I'll be using that one.
 
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