spots on new paint
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,050
Likes: 1
From: MCALLEN ,TX
spots on new paint
So i'm painting some of my tins. Practicing on smaller stuff before I tear into the tank. Im having trouble with these tiny spots on the clear coat. I've wet sanded with 1200 forever it seems going through countless sheets of paper...then I polished with 3M rubbing compound. Polished it up real nice and shiny...but in indirect light there are these little f*cking spots!!! they look like real tiny water spots...but like tiny...taking a pic would be a waste cuz you wouldnt be able to see them unless you are looking at the piece.. I sanded down the battery cover with 800 just to scuff up the clear and there are no spots but now i have to re-clear.
Am I doing something during the clear process that I shouldnt be? How can I avoid this?
Am I doing something during the clear process that I shouldnt be? How can I avoid this?
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,828
Likes: 8
Wet sanding with 1200grit to remove blemishes is sort of like wiping your butt with wax paper. You need something with a little more bite. Try 400 grit or 600 grit wet and apply very little pressure. Also be sure to use a thin rubber block. If you feel like you are gonna sand through, stop. After they are gone, bump the sand paper up and up until you get to at least 2000 grit, changing sand patterns as you go up in numbers. Then polish with a good rubbing compound, final compound, and final glaze. I use 3M's Finesse-It and Perfect-It III, works great!
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,050
Likes: 1
From: MCALLEN ,TX
Wet sanding with 1200grit to remove blemishes is sort of like wiping your butt with wax paper. You need something with a little more bite. Try 400 grit or 600 grit wet and apply very little pressure. Also be sure to use a thin rubber block. If you feel like you are gonna sand through, stop. After they are gone, bump the sand paper up and up until you get to at least 2000 grit, changing sand patterns as you go up in numbers. Then polish with a good rubbing compound, final compound, and final glaze. I use 3M's Finesse-It and Perfect-It III, works great!
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,790
Likes: 7
From: Texas
Hard to say without seeing pictures, but I believe you have what is commonly called "SOLVENT POP". This occurs when drying time is reduced and solvents can't evaporate - they kind of "explode".
It looks like microscopic air bubbles in clearcoat. You may be laying the clear on too thick - that's usually what causes them. Keep your distance to workpiece farther apart - who cares about orange peel if you sand and buff, right? Wetsand with 1200 to start then go to 2000 and buff.
Solvent pop happens all the time in runs as well.
Also, make sure the activator you're using is good for the right temperature in your garage. If it's a 80-90 degree activator and it's 55-60 degrees out, that's a problem.
OH!!! AND TACK RAG YOUR BASECOAT BEFORE CLEARCOATING!!!!!!!
It looks like microscopic air bubbles in clearcoat. You may be laying the clear on too thick - that's usually what causes them. Keep your distance to workpiece farther apart - who cares about orange peel if you sand and buff, right? Wetsand with 1200 to start then go to 2000 and buff.
Solvent pop happens all the time in runs as well.
Also, make sure the activator you're using is good for the right temperature in your garage. If it's a 80-90 degree activator and it's 55-60 degrees out, that's a problem.
OH!!! AND TACK RAG YOUR BASECOAT BEFORE CLEARCOATING!!!!!!!
Last edited by streetfighter06; Apr 11, 2011 at 04:23 PM.
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Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,050
Likes: 1
From: MCALLEN ,TX
Hard to say without seeing pictures, but I believe you have what is commonly called "SOLVENT POP". This occurs when drying time is reduced and solvents can't evaporate - they kind of "explode".
It looks like microscopic air bubbles in clearcoat. You may be laying the clear on too thick - that's usually what causes them. Keep your distance to workpiece farther apart - who cares about orange peel if you sand and buff, right? Wetsand with 1200 to start then go to 2000 and buff.
Solvent pop happens all the time in runs as well.
Also, make sure the activator you're using is good for the right temperature in your garage. If it's a 80-90 degree activator and it's 55-60 degrees out, that's a problem.
OH!!! AND TACK RAG YOUR BASECOAT BEFORE CLEARCOATING!!!!!!!
It looks like microscopic air bubbles in clearcoat. You may be laying the clear on too thick - that's usually what causes them. Keep your distance to workpiece farther apart - who cares about orange peel if you sand and buff, right? Wetsand with 1200 to start then go to 2000 and buff.
Solvent pop happens all the time in runs as well.
Also, make sure the activator you're using is good for the right temperature in your garage. If it's a 80-90 degree activator and it's 55-60 degrees out, that's a problem.
OH!!! AND TACK RAG YOUR BASECOAT BEFORE CLEARCOATING!!!!!!!
Im totally new at this...what's tack ragging?
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,828
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Tag rags are like cheesecloth that has a sticky adhesive. They will feel waxy but will not leave a residue. Use them to wipe the tank down just before you repaint or reclear to remove all of the debris.