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I wouldn't worry about it. My "Stealer" told me they eventually go bad. He was most likely telling me that so I get my bike tuned through them! I just threw it out there to see if anybody could confirm it.
You should have told him "Everything" eventually goes bad.
I went ahead and attached the negative directly to the battery. I saw no issue with this as the wire coming straight off the battery goes to the same spot they(V&H) tell you to attached the FP negative. Getting the cover closed is definitely a bit snug but it works perfectly where I have mine.
I wouldn't worry about it. My "Stealer" told me they eventually go bad. He was most likely telling me that so I get my bike tuned through them! I just threw it out there to see if anybody could confirm it.
Thats funny. I bought mine used off a forum member that had it for over a year and its been on my bike 2 years now with no issues. Installation was a bit tight but it fit just fine with a little patience. Don;t see it going bad anytime soon and with my slip-ons/Ness Big Sucker Air Cleaner/Fuel Pak combo I get 55 MPG if I want to cruising......but thats no fun. I'd say the fuel pak works just fine......and for longer than a couple years.
Thats funny. I bought mine used off a forum member that had it for over a year and its been on my bike 2 years now with no issues. Installation was a bit tight but it fit just fine with a little patience. Don;t see it going bad anytime soon and with my slip-ons/Ness Big Sucker Air Cleaner/Fuel Pak combo I get 55 MPG if I want to cruising......but thats no fun. I'd say the fuel pak works just fine......and for longer than a couple years.
Wow that scared me for a few moments, thought i missed something about them breaking after two years lol
Main reason I went with a fuelpak was coz there was one going cheap on eBay,
Picked it up for Ł32 ($52) thought at that price if it didn't workout I hadn't lost a lot :0) seems to be going great, I'm happy
How do your bikes run with the fuel pak? I do not wan to pay the high price at my dealer to get my bike Dyno Tuned once I get the V&H Big Radius on my bike. I've heard the Fuel pak is something that will work for you temporarily (year or two).....does that sound right? I just want to get the pipes and new air cleaner on my bike and ride. I don't need any performance changes but then again I don't want to spend $200 on the fuel pak and have to get another one a couple years later. Can you guys tell me how it is working out for you? Thanks!
Yeah I can confirm it for you Go Getter. I had one on my bike and it ran good for about six months. It got rid of the decel pop and it ran stronger than stock and I really liked it. Then one day I took it for a ride and hit WOT and when I reached about six thousand RPM's it just lost total power. Nearly threw me off the thing. Pulled it to the side of the road turned it off and then turned it back on and it was able to get me home. Called Vance and Hines and they gave me a bunch of new map numbers and I tried them all. It made no difference, it still fell on its face at about six thousand. Called HD and the tech told me the Fuelpak is not strong enough to override the ECU indeffinately and eventually the Fuelpak will be useless. I'm riding stock now and trying to enjoy it. Good luck.
Mr. Aaron 48: What model # V & H fuelpak do you have, i just bought model # V61013 sportster 2010- 2011 for my sportster 48 2011, with the V & H staggered black powdercoated short shots & SE pro high flow air cleanner kit p/n # 29042-04C. Also do you know anything about the adapter kit p/n # 29848-04 , i want to keep my original air cleaner cover p/n # 29792-04. Bottom line any suggestion, good ideas or valid short cuts will be greatly appreciated about the fit of the fuel pak being a tight fit, etc...
Yeah I can confirm it for you Go Getter. I had one on my bike and it ran good for about six months. It got rid of the decel pop and it ran stronger than stock and I really liked it. Then one day I took it for a ride and hit WOT and when I reached about six thousand RPM's it just lost total power. Nearly threw me off the thing. Pulled it to the side of the road turned it off and then turned it back on and it was able to get me home. Called Vance and Hines and they gave me a bunch of new map numbers and I tried them all. It made no difference, it still fell on its face at about six thousand. Called HD and the tech told me the Fuelpak is not strong enough to override the ECU indeffinately and eventually the Fuelpak will be useless. I'm riding stock now and trying to enjoy it. Good luck.
Either your Harley tech is an idiot or is blowing smoke up your @$$.....probably option B, that way you can come in and pay them hundreds of dollars for a tuner and then hundreds more for a dyno tune. Don't get me wrong there is nothing better than having an vehicle put on a dyno and tuned with real time information for that specific application.
BUT to say your HD computer will just up and decide to stop paying attention to the Fuel Pak is bogus. Our bikes computers have no idea that the fuelpak is in place and is sending information to the computer. The ECU thinks the information it is getting is coming directly from the bikes various sensors and not from the Fuel Pak.
You have to remember some people will say anything to make a sale. If you take someone who knows nothing about the operation of a fuel injected application and then pair them up with someone who is supposed to be a trusted mechanic. Clueless is going to believe anything the mechanic says.
Mr. Aaron 48: What model # V & H fuelpak do you have, i just bought model # V61013 sportster 2010- 2011 for my sportster 48 2011, with the V & H staggered black powdercoated short shots & SE pro high flow air cleanner kit p/n # 29042-04C. Also do you know anything about the adapter kit p/n # 29848-04 , i want to keep my original air cleaner cover p/n # 29792-04. Bottom line any suggestion, good ideas or valid short cuts will be greatly appreciated about the fit of the fuel pak being a tight fit, etc...
Cheers, thank you
Nickyg Panama City, Panama
Yes you do have the right FuelPack for your bike. The only part for me that was tough was getting to the Negative terminal and the back of the trans case. you need a 1/4" ratchet and I believe a 10mm socket and a universal joint with some long extensions on it. After you get the negative disconnected from the stud on the trans everything else should be cake.
After the cable is disconnected pull the battery out far enough to remove the Positive and negative cables. Pull the battery out all the way this will make your life really easy for the rest of the install. After you get all the connections made take your time and position all the connectors so everything fits nicely and put it back together. Dont rush thats where we make mistakes. Like I said the hardest part is getting at the Negative cable where it is grounded to the Transmission. Here are two pictures of how it should look after install.
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