Lets see If I can name them all,,

Fill In any I miss

Bad tires, cupping, balace, dry rot.
Low or too High Tire pressure,
Wheel bearing slop,
Improperly adjusted neck bearings,
Loose triple tree mounts,

Suspension too soft or too stiff
Main Drive belt too tight
Improperly adjusted rider sag,
Bike too low in the back,
too low in the front,
Fork stiction,
Fork flex.

Holding on the bars to tight
Stiff arming the bike
Pulling on the bars to fight the wind
Some Fairings,

There's gotta be more

 

i edited my above post to make it clear that i was not attempting to solve a wobble.


i am interested in jbyun's results.
i hope he finds the brace more usefull than i did.

 

Will definitely update once I get it installed and put some miles on it.

Kind of wish I knew your situation before I ordered because it seems like you may be willing to part with your superbrace and I think the one for the Iron and the Nightster are identical...just different part number. Unless, of course, you like the looks of it and just keep in on there.

 

keep your mind open and evaluate it for yourself!
i am unsure whether the tight 'brand newness' of my bike or my even inexperience as a rider is why i didn't notice a difference.

the part numbers for iron and nightster are different but the brace is the same according to the nice people at the superbrace co.

though i do not like the looks i'm going to keep mine because i have since changed to heavier fork oil. fact is now, with the heavier oil, i may well have experienced fork flex without the brace.

 

Could you elaborate a little more about improperly adjusted rider sag?

 

Yeah this Is commonly missed and can cause all kinds of problems like
bottoming out,
topping out.
wobbles,,

You are trying to set "Sag" to make the suspension work better.
When the bike rises after a bump the forks have this Sag area
to extend into to help keep the tires on the road.
Topping out Is bad news In a corner.
Suspension sag should be 1/4th to 1/3rd total
travel, Thats you on the bike as you ride.
Kick stand up.

Tie a twist tie round the fork bout half way up the
tube,,TIGHT,,both sides.
Now go bottom out the front end,,speed bumps will work but don't slam it.
Two big guys pushing down should be able to bottom It also
that would be better cause If ya slam it,,the ties may scoot up too far.
The twist tie will push up so measure that up to the bottom of the lower tree.
Next Jack the bike front up,,where Its hangin free.
Measure that,,,Get total travel,,follow me ?
Take total length and subtract what was above the tie after the bottom out.
THAT Is total travel.

Now to check rider sag,,thats you on the bike.
Twist tie's again, one or bothsides down low and Sit the bike kickstand up and
do It a bit softly, don't drop your *** down hard just sit down normal.
The tie will move up,,That Is rider sag.
Mine stock was 50% of total travel..very bad.
3/4" added preload worked for me,,,My bike Is a full height Roadster,,5.69" front travel.
My Preload will be Different from yours.

Ok the preload spacers,,
You need a pipe cutter NOT a hack saw.
Pipe cutter(wheel type) will cut even and smooth.
3/4" pvc Is a perfect fit In our 39 mm tubes
SCHEDULE 40 pvc thick wall ONLY,,schedule 20
the common stiff will crush,
40 has the same wall thickness as the springs,,
No washers needed at all XD

While your In there change the fork fluid if It needs it,,,
You need the service book for ammounts. Caution: more than 1/2 oz overfill could blow the seals.
The stock oil Is 5wt. I went with 20 wt the
first summer,,was ok for me BUT could be too stiff for the average rider
because the tire takes more time to come back down.
20 was ok till fall weather,,got too stiff,,I changed to 10wt.

Sportster forks are slow to respond,,and
It's very very dangerous to stiffen them up
Unless you know the roads your on and got ALOT of time on street bikes.
The Riccor Intimidators really fixed things,,,but they are pricey,,
http://store.ricorshocks.com/default.asp

The XL forum has a massive sticky on sportster
suspension,,,takes all day to read,,here Is a smaple:
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s...ad.php?t=93767

Rear shock preloads are more limited so do the best you can,
also If you bottom out hard or alot with rear sag set
try for the 1/4 total travel Instead of 1/3.

 

UPDATE: Finally got the Superbrace in the mail, installed it had a couple of days to try it out. The first couple of days were just puttin' around town and I really didn't notice a difference other than 2 things:

1. At speeds above 80 mph, the front end seemed a bit more stable than before.
2. When I hit the bump to get on my driveway, it seems a little softer than before.

Other than that, really nothing I could notice.

Had a chance to hit some short twisties today and it's not a significant difference but it seems like the bike turns a little better than before. I've read some people's review stating that after installing the superbrace they felt that it required extra effort to lean the bike but to me it felt easier to lean the bike.

In any case, doesn't look too bad (although if it had no performance gain, I wouldn't slap it on there) and seems like the bike handles a little better. But for close to $200 I would have expected a little more felt difference. Or maybe I have been spoiled by the X14iED.

 

volks-man.
What did you replace the rear shocks for? Stiffer or softer ride and who's were they?

 

I deeply apologize to anyone who's often annoyed by people bumpin up old threads, but I was so glad to have been reminded about this often over looked maintnance tip since I'm just getting back on the saddle since 1993.
Thank you Osco!