Would I wedge the hinge between the teeth of the engine sprocket and clutch sprocket to prevent them from turning?

 

Yup, It won't be as easy as wedge. But it will stay put once you get some weight or pressure on it.

Hey, no worries, Riding is the important part.

 

I use a long, large sized hex wrench to put between the gears.

On my bike, air tools are required to get that sprocket nut off.

You will also need a tool to compress the clutch basket, before you need to worry about how to get the sprocket nut.

The dealer that told you it's the volt reg might be partially correct. If either the stator or volt regulator go bad, they will quickly burn up the other part.

Unlike cHarley, I've been through 4 stators and 4 voltage regulators. It might not show it's nasty head for a week or so. Usually when I have replaced the stator, about a week later, it also needed a Volt Regulator. At least the volt reg is easy to replace.

 

I had everything ready to go when I got home from work. Read thru the manuals and got to the point where I needed to remove the clutch and drive gear. I had to measure the nuts and run out to Tractor Supply for some sockets.

Got back about an hour later and used the 1 3/16" to remove the left handed clutch nut. Then I had to refer back to the manual to see if the drive gear was left or right handed. Used a 1 1/8" socket for that one.

When I found my answer I used the electric impact wrench to loosen both parts. I removed everything as a unit, then went about taking out the four screws holding the stator to the case. 3 of the 4 broke loose easily, the fourth stripped out. Another run for parts....

Went to Home Depot and picked up a 10-24 by 1 1/2" stainless screw and some easy outs. When I got back, I tried drilling the stripped screw with a 5/32" bit to use the #1 easy out. The bit snapped off in the screw!!

So then I got out the Dremel and tried to cut a straight slot in the screw head so I could use a screwdriver to remove the part. Didn't work. Next I tried a larger drill bit and attempted to drill to off the head of the screw. Between the Dremel and drill I was eventually able to remove the head, and then the stator.

Next I tried to grip the shank of the screw with vice-grips and channel locks- wouldn't budge. So I decided to try the easy outs again. Redrilled a hole into the screw and started with the easy out. Broke off in the screw!!

Eventually I was able to get the screw to move using a combination of vice grips and the channel locks. At that point I decided to call it quits.

Basically I have to remove the stator and pull the wire thru, then begin the reinstall. Are there any tricks to routing the wire on the new stator? Should I tie a piece of wire or string to the original wire when I remove it?

Hope everything goes well tomorrow.

Sporty Pig, I'm gonna perform the voltage reg checks tomorrow morning before I close it all back up. I hope it checks good since I'm well over $200 into parts already.

 

Once you get the old stator out is pretty much downhill from there. You must not have a good parts guy where you got the stator. All of the stators I've bought, the parts guy would go ahead and sell me those little screws. Said I was gonna need them, and SHE, yes I said SHE, stated she didn't know why HD didn't just include those screws along with the stator. Sorry I forgot about that potential pitfall. I've had to replace those screws every time when replacing the stator.

I don't think you want to test the stator before you put it all back together. If you start the bike in that condition, it will be running with no oil in the gear box and the stator.

 

This morning I went to the stealer and picked up some new stator mounting screws and a couple of new screws for the primary cover. I had a hell of a time trying to fish the old wire from the regulator to the primary. Finally I decided to cut the plug end off the old stator to make things easier. When I pulled the old one out, I found that one of the wires had burned off the assembly. That explained the charred spot I found on the inside of the case.

I had taped a piece of wire on the original assembly to assist in pulling the new one thru. Well that didn't work. I messed around for more than an hour trying to reroute the wire. The damn plug just seemed way too big to fit thru. Eventually I removed the sprocket cover and rear exhaust pipe to get a better view of the area.

Finally the lightbulb went on and I decided to fish the plug between the oil lines, then route the wire thru the gap. At long last, I was ready to reassemble!!! I put everything back together and poured in a new quart of Mobile 1 75W-90 and reconnected the battery. The battery voltage was 12.8 before I started it.

I fired up the bike and voila!!! I got a reading of 14.4V at the positive terminal...Problem solved.

In all this project took a lot longer than I expected - but what project doesn't? My original fears about messing with the clutch were unfounded and it was an easier job than I thought in the beginning. If or when it fails again, it will be a lot faster to change out.

BTW, the mechanic at the shop was completely off base, which is exactly why I work on my own bike.

 

You forgot to mention about how bad it smelled.

 

I'm glad it all worked out for you. I have to do this project as soon as the stator arrives in the mail. I bought a new one on eBay for $44. The stealer wanted $119.

 

I read some bad things about the stock HD stators, which is why I went with an Accel part. I may change the regulator to a Cycle Electric down the road to help prevent further problems.

Once again, this forum proved invaluable in evaluating and fixing the problem as well as in saving me some $. If, or when I have to perform this repair again, I'm sure it will go much smoother and quicker.

Took the bike for a 170 mile ride yesterday and experienced no issues. And I swear the bike starts quicker than before. Good luck with your project!!

 

The door hinge works great, as can an appropriate deep socket. The impact gun alone is not a good idea, the crankshaft is three piece and can be twisted out of alignment.

The clutch basket can be pulled by first removing the throw-out bearing held in by the circlip and fitting a socket through the resulting hole to the clutch hub nut. I don't think an impact socket will fit, too thick. The clutch hub nut is reverse thread, the crankshaft sprocket is standard thread.

[EDIT:] Aww hell, never mind! You are already done!