Lately the weather has sucked around here, but I've been riding at least 2-3 days a week. Friday I took the bike in for our state inspection, took it for a 100+ mile ride, then parked it in that afternoon - it ran fine the entire time. The bike sat until today (Wednesday).

I backed the bike out and tried to start it this morning. It turned over slowly then quit. I put it on the charger for about 15 minutes and was able to start the bike. I rode the 15 miles to work, shut off the bike and tried to start it....Nothing but clicking.

The battery was originally activated 1/06 and I purchased it in Feb/March 2009, so I've been using it for 2 1/2 years. Assuming it had reached the end of it's lifetime, I removed it and connected it to a power supply to recharge it. In the meantime, I picked up a new Interstate battery from the local indy, planning to replace the battery when I got home.

I reinstalled the original battery - which I had charged to 13.6V, and took a voltage measurement before I started it - 12.5V. With the bike running, it stayed approximately the same and did not increase as expected. I took a longer route home, washed the bike and ran to the store. When I got home, I left the bike running and checked the battery voltage - 11.4V.

At this point, I'm assuming that either the voltage regulator or stator is bad. I've looked at the service manual and read over the various tests on the charging system; however, I'm asking the forum members for advice on where to start.

How likely is the voltage regulator the problem? I certainly hope it's not the stator. We have unseasonably warm and sunny weather forecast for the next week or so and I really don't want to be down with the end of the season looming. Another question -- How long can I run off the battery alone without risking a shutdown?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

EDIT - Did a forum search about charging problems and found that sometimes a distinct odor often accompanies a fried stator. I didn't remove the derby cover yet or perform the tests mentioned in the manual, but I did notice a strange smell a couple of times today. I hope I'm wrong!!

 

Performed the tests this morning and believe that the stator is bad. There were no shorts to ground, stator read <1 ohm and the VAC output was less than 1 VAC.

I located an Accel replacement locally and I'm going to pick it up today after work, along with a replacement primary gasket and a quart of Mobil 1 75W-90.

I remember seeing a link to a website that provided exploded views of the Sportster which also included part numbers, etc. Does anyone know where I can find this site?

I have both the HD shop manual and the Clymer, but neither really shows the exploded view of the area I'm working on.

 

Here's the link to the microfiche pages showing parts and their relationship to each other: http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....m_oem/hdmc.asp

If you need the part numbers, add the part to the cart then go to check out and make a note of them.

Best of luck on getting going again.


~

 

While picking up the parts at the shop, I spoke with the mechanic about the stator and how to check it. When I explained that the stator was putting out less than 1 volt, he seemed to think the voltage regulator should be the first thing to change and that the stator was fine as long as it was putting out something. I disagreed based on what the tests in the shop manual told me. I passed on the new regulator and they didn't have one in stock anyway.

I think I've positively confirmed the stator failure. During my forum research last night, many posters mentioned a strong odor that occurs when the stator gives out. Let me tell you, nothing could have prepared me for that horrific smell!!! And I've only removed the inspection cover. I decided to wait until tomorrow (warmer) when I can open the doors and put on a fan or two. I noticed a chunk of silicone on the back of the inspection cover gasket (see crappy cell phone pic). Is this possibly something that broke off the stator?

So now I have the new Accel stator and primary gasket. I still need to pick up the oil, but I'll be set to go tomorrow when I get home from work.

I have a few questions

- Is there any way to remove the rotor without removing the clutch assembly?

- If not, do I need any specialty tools to help remove the clutch and or rotor assembly? I have an electric impact wrench that I used when I changed my drive sprocket- I didn't need the specialty tools the HD manual mentioned to help hold the parts while loosening the fasteners.

- Should I consider changing the regulator as well? I've spent about $200 for parts so far, including a new battery. Or should I just check the regulator as per the HD manual and leave it (for now) if it checks good? I would have to order the regulator (aftermarket) and wait until next week, or check the local stealers for one. I really don't want to put another HD part on if it needs replacing.

I hope to get this repair done by Saturday afternoon since we're at the beginning of a stretch of 7 days of unseasonably and dry weather. NE PA has received 6 months worth of rain in September / early October. I really don't want to miss out on this opportunity...

I know some of the forum members have been thru this, many more than once. I'm looking for some advice before I start tomorrow afternoon. Thanks in advance...

And thank you Quixote for the link.

 

The stator output (unplugged) should measure between 20 - 70 AC volts (not DC volts). The voltage increases as the rpm is increased. If you don't have that voltage the stator is definitely bad.

FYI - I've had 3 bad stators and 0 bad regulators, so I wouldn't waste money assuming you need a regulator if you already know that the stator has no output.

20,000 - 25,000 miles seems to be about the typical life of a Harley stator.

 

Thanks cHarley, that's what I thought. Don't know why the mechanic was insisting that the regulator was bad.

Do I need any special tools to get the clutch apart? That seems to be the most daunting part of the task.

By the way, I made it to a bit over 31k on the original stator.

 

No, but you'll pull the whole clutch basket. No special tools needed.

Again no special tools, but a 4 inch? hinge is the ticket to lock the rotor sprocket and clutch sprocket while your trying to break loose the nut on the crank.

I changed my stator and regulator as a set. I used cycle electric.

Good luck.

 

Thanks freebird, will the electric impact wrench work?? I used it when I removed my drive sprocket rather than using the Harley "specialty locking tool", which of course wasn't in stock and was uber-expensive.

I wanted to go with cycle electric and actually called them today. Super helpful. Unfortunately the local distributor didn't have the CE parts in stock and I want to try and fix this ASAP since the riding season is nearing the end. That's why I went with the Accel stator.

 

+1 on the 4" (brass is best) door hinge. And either an air driven impact gun or big *** breaker bar to break the sprocket nuts loose. NOTE: the sprocket nut is left hand thread.

 

Yep, if it's a good one.