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CV carb not holding idle tailpipe pops and crackles
I have a 1988 883 sportster deluxe with a 1200 conversion It had the original carb with no acceleration pump but the float bowl stem is cracked so I got a newer cv with the acceleration pump it has a #170 main and #72 low the mixture needle is out 2 1/2 turns and my idle speed screw is adjusted as well it just drops and wont idle and it pops out the tailpipes I have a #180 main and a #48 low should I try the #48?? or is that to big? the old carb worked better I know I dont have any air leaks some input and help please
Thanks
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did you clean the passages , and jets in the replacment carb?
If it sat a while, it may have garbage/junk in the passages..
my 1200 (91) runs well on Cv with 180 main , and 45 pilot jet.
air screw is turned in untill engine bogs , then out to running smooth (at idle) , then out another turn ..
I never count the turns out , I let the engine tell me what it wants
yes everything has been well cleaned I have a #48 low think thats to big? I started at 1 1/2 to 2 turns out, I was told the popping out the pipe was to lean im at 2 1/2 already.
Well ive figured it out on the newer cv carbs the acceleration pump lever has a spring on the throttle cable side which when you pull back on the throttle engages the spring to push open the acceleration pump which is a rubber diaphragm that opens to allow more fuel in and sprays it into the mouth of the carb.I noticed that the spring was stretched longer then it should be and it held the acceleration pump open at idle which gas was constantly running into the carb and caused the popping sounds so it was running way rich.I had the mixture screw all the in and it still ran and popped and crackled.The reason why is that spring held the pump open
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