Progressive Shocks for the SuperLow
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,580
Likes: 4
From: Colorado
70mph is 70 mph whether your in a car, on a E-Glide, or rollin' a 1200... I would ask your wrench exactly what he means about that.
Agreed. But not looking for extra speed.
My wife rides an 883 SL as well, I did a stage 1 for her, and the price tag was well below that of a 1200... She can do 100mph no problem, a 6th gear would be nice, but none the less the Stage 1 was definitely a better upgrade.
What I am looking for is to smooth out the vibration through the handlebars and bike at high speeds. And, of course, having comfort in general is always a plus. I will be asking more questions about the shocks versus the 1200 upgrade. My answer came to me second hand. I will ask directly.
Now shocks on the other hand... I have read on here that some riders are putting E-Glide shocks on their Sporty's. I don't think there is any mod'n required, but you might want to look around to see what you can find.
Agreed. But not looking for extra speed.
My wife rides an 883 SL as well, I did a stage 1 for her, and the price tag was well below that of a 1200... She can do 100mph no problem, a 6th gear would be nice, but none the less the Stage 1 was definitely a better upgrade.
What I am looking for is to smooth out the vibration through the handlebars and bike at high speeds. And, of course, having comfort in general is always a plus. I will be asking more questions about the shocks versus the 1200 upgrade. My answer came to me second hand. I will ask directly.
Now shocks on the other hand... I have read on here that some riders are putting E-Glide shocks on their Sporty's. I don't think there is any mod'n required, but you might want to look around to see what you can find.
I will check out the E-Glide shocks but not looking to add any height to the bike.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 535
Likes: 2
From: Saint Johns, FL
For comfort on long trips
#1 is a comfortable seat, most stock seats are miserable.
#2 Foot peg position, are they comfortable or do they seem cramped after awhile?
If cramped, forwards or highway pegs are the solution.
#3 Handle bar position, do you feel like you are leaning forward or being pushed backward at freeway speeds?
If you feel forward, rotate the bars back, or change bars.
If you feel you are being pushed back, you have to pull on the bars to hold yourself up, rotate bars forward, change bars and/or add a back rest.
#4 Vibration in the handle bars, if it is road vibration, Progressive fork springs might help, if it is engine vibration bar end weights can help.. But on FI Harleys than can be a real pain to add without messing up the throttle sensors.
#5 getting the wind off you.. a removable wind screen can be invaluable. Two problems with them are, some can actually make the wind buffeting worse, and the change in wind on you can change where the handle bars need to be for comfort.
#6 suspension,, softer suspension front and rear can make a big difference.. Like I said before, on the SL or Low with 11" shocks I don't think there is much you can do if you are not willing to go longer.. Progressives once you get to the 12" or longer are much better than the same length stock shock. But while the 11" Progressive are a bit better, not much, they just aren't long enough or have enough travel to help out.. I believe if you want to go with air shocks the shortest are the Part# 54662-09 from the street glide they are still 11.5"
#1 is a comfortable seat, most stock seats are miserable.
#2 Foot peg position, are they comfortable or do they seem cramped after awhile?
If cramped, forwards or highway pegs are the solution.
#3 Handle bar position, do you feel like you are leaning forward or being pushed backward at freeway speeds?
If you feel forward, rotate the bars back, or change bars.
If you feel you are being pushed back, you have to pull on the bars to hold yourself up, rotate bars forward, change bars and/or add a back rest.
#4 Vibration in the handle bars, if it is road vibration, Progressive fork springs might help, if it is engine vibration bar end weights can help.. But on FI Harleys than can be a real pain to add without messing up the throttle sensors.
#5 getting the wind off you.. a removable wind screen can be invaluable. Two problems with them are, some can actually make the wind buffeting worse, and the change in wind on you can change where the handle bars need to be for comfort.
#6 suspension,, softer suspension front and rear can make a big difference.. Like I said before, on the SL or Low with 11" shocks I don't think there is much you can do if you are not willing to go longer.. Progressives once you get to the 12" or longer are much better than the same length stock shock. But while the 11" Progressive are a bit better, not much, they just aren't long enough or have enough travel to help out.. I believe if you want to go with air shocks the shortest are the Part# 54662-09 from the street glide they are still 11.5"
Last edited by hig4s; Dec 18, 2011 at 02:57 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,580
Likes: 4
From: Colorado
For comfort on long trips
#1 is a comfortable seat, most stock seats are miserable.
#2 Foot peg position, are they comfortable or do they seem cramped after awhile?
If cramped, forwards or highway pegs are the solution.
#3 Handle bar position, do you feel like you are leaning forward or being pushed backward at freeway speeds?
If you feel forward, rotate the bars back, or change bars.
If you feel you are being pushed back, you have to pull on the bars to hold yourself up, rotate bars forward, change bars and/or add a back rest.
#4 Vibration in the handle bars, if it is road vibration, Progressive fork springs might help, if it is engine vibration bar end weights can help.. But on FI Harleys than can be a real pain to add without messing up the throttle sensors.
#5 getting the wind off you.. a removable wind screen can be invaluable. Two problems with them are, some can actually make the wind buffeting worse, and the change in wind on you can change where the handle bars need to be for comfort.
#6 suspension,, softer suspension front and rear can make a big difference.. Like I said before, on the SL or Low with 11" shocks I don't think there is much you can do if you are not willing to go longer.. Progressives once you get to the 12" or longer are much better than the same length stock shock. But while the 11" Progressive are a bit better, not much, they just aren't long enough or have enough travel to help out.. I believe if you want to go with air shocks the shortest are the Part# 54662-09 from the street glide they are still 11.5"
#1 is a comfortable seat, most stock seats are miserable.
#2 Foot peg position, are they comfortable or do they seem cramped after awhile?
If cramped, forwards or highway pegs are the solution.
#3 Handle bar position, do you feel like you are leaning forward or being pushed backward at freeway speeds?
If you feel forward, rotate the bars back, or change bars.
If you feel you are being pushed back, you have to pull on the bars to hold yourself up, rotate bars forward, change bars and/or add a back rest.
#4 Vibration in the handle bars, if it is road vibration, Progressive fork springs might help, if it is engine vibration bar end weights can help.. But on FI Harleys than can be a real pain to add without messing up the throttle sensors.
#5 getting the wind off you.. a removable wind screen can be invaluable. Two problems with them are, some can actually make the wind buffeting worse, and the change in wind on you can change where the handle bars need to be for comfort.
#6 suspension,, softer suspension front and rear can make a big difference.. Like I said before, on the SL or Low with 11" shocks I don't think there is much you can do if you are not willing to go longer.. Progressives once you get to the 12" or longer are much better than the same length stock shock. But while the 11" Progressive are a bit better, not much, they just aren't long enough or have enough travel to help out.. I believe if you want to go with air shocks the shortest are the Part# 54662-09 from the street glide they are still 11.5"
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 958
Likes: 0
From: Hartford, WI
I did feel cramped and switched to forwards. After all, highway pegs are great if you spend most of your time cruising but I do spend some time in the city with start and stop traffic so I felt forward controls were better
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 648
Likes: 24
From: New Jersey
I have read countless posts about changing Sportster shocks, springs, engine displacement, gear ratios, etc. If you have the means, consider trading the bike for a Big Twin with a 6th gear, more robust frame and legitimate shock/spring travel. I owned the same model Sportster as yours and I am so glad that I made the switch.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,580
Likes: 4
From: Colorado
I have read countless posts about changing Sportster shocks, springs, engine displacement, gear ratios, etc. If you have the means, consider trading the bike for a Big Twin with a 6th gear, more robust frame and legitimate shock/spring travel. I owned the same model Sportster as yours and I am so glad that I made the switch.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,030
Likes: 65
From: Calgary AB
I think what your mechanic is talking about is not only changing the bore to 1200, but also changing to 1200 gearing. I'm in the process of doing that too.
An 883 (well, an '06 at least) is revving at about 4000 RPM at 75MPH. I find that a killer for extended periods.
This fall I changed the secondary (front belt) sprocket from 28T to 30T. That helped some (about 7 1/2%). This winter I'm going to change the primary sprocket too. That's about another 10%.
These two should get me down to about 3350RPM at 75MPH, a significant drop.
My 883 has already been converted to 1200, I don't think you'd want to run this gearing on a stock 883. All in its not cheap, prob less than buying a Dyna though.
An 883 (well, an '06 at least) is revving at about 4000 RPM at 75MPH. I find that a killer for extended periods.
This fall I changed the secondary (front belt) sprocket from 28T to 30T. That helped some (about 7 1/2%). This winter I'm going to change the primary sprocket too. That's about another 10%.
These two should get me down to about 3350RPM at 75MPH, a significant drop.
My 883 has already been converted to 1200, I don't think you'd want to run this gearing on a stock 883. All in its not cheap, prob less than buying a Dyna though.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
For comfort on long trips
#1 is a comfortable seat, most stock seats are miserable.
#2 Foot peg position, are they comfortable or do they seem cramped after awhile?
If cramped, forwards or highway pegs are the solution.
#3 Handle bar position, do you feel like you are leaning forward or being pushed backward at freeway speeds?
If you feel forward, rotate the bars back, or change bars.
If you feel you are being pushed back, you have to pull on the bars to hold yourself up, rotate bars forward, change bars and/or add a back rest.
#4 Vibration in the handle bars, if it is road vibration, Progressive fork springs might help, if it is engine vibration bar end weights can help.. But on FI Harleys than can be a real pain to add without messing up the throttle sensors.
#5 getting the wind off you.. a removable wind screen can be invaluable. Two problems with them are, some can actually make the wind buffeting worse, and the change in wind on you can change where the handle bars need to be for comfort.
#6 suspension,, softer suspension front and rear can make a big difference.. Like I said before, on the SL or Low with 11" shocks I don't think there is much you can do if you are not willing to go longer.. Progressives once you get to the 12" or longer are much better than the same length stock shock. But while the 11" Progressive are a bit better, not much, they just aren't long enough or have enough travel to help out.. I believe if you want to go with air shocks the shortest are the Part# 54662-09 from the street glide they are still 11.5"
#1 is a comfortable seat, most stock seats are miserable.
#2 Foot peg position, are they comfortable or do they seem cramped after awhile?
If cramped, forwards or highway pegs are the solution.
#3 Handle bar position, do you feel like you are leaning forward or being pushed backward at freeway speeds?
If you feel forward, rotate the bars back, or change bars.
If you feel you are being pushed back, you have to pull on the bars to hold yourself up, rotate bars forward, change bars and/or add a back rest.
#4 Vibration in the handle bars, if it is road vibration, Progressive fork springs might help, if it is engine vibration bar end weights can help.. But on FI Harleys than can be a real pain to add without messing up the throttle sensors.
#5 getting the wind off you.. a removable wind screen can be invaluable. Two problems with them are, some can actually make the wind buffeting worse, and the change in wind on you can change where the handle bars need to be for comfort.
#6 suspension,, softer suspension front and rear can make a big difference.. Like I said before, on the SL or Low with 11" shocks I don't think there is much you can do if you are not willing to go longer.. Progressives once you get to the 12" or longer are much better than the same length stock shock. But while the 11" Progressive are a bit better, not much, they just aren't long enough or have enough travel to help out.. I believe if you want to go with air shocks the shortest are the Part# 54662-09 from the street glide they are still 11.5"
On my SuperLow I have fitted Hagons at the rear, with custom springs, plus Racetech springs and Emulators up front.
Last edited by grbrown; Dec 19, 2011 at 03:41 AM.
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 535
Likes: 2
From: Saint Johns, FL
I would list those in a different order and add another one. To improve comfort start at the ground and work up. Stock tyres, especially any of the Dunlop range, are unforgiving things, but Metzelers or even better Avons will smooth out the road and are a great foundation on which to build. Next up is replacement shocks and as a general rule longer ones will give a better ride. A good quality seat on top is the cherry on the cake.
On my SuperLow I have fitted Hagons at the rear, with custom springs, plus Racetech springs and Emulators up front.
On my SuperLow I have fitted Hagons at the rear, with custom springs, plus Racetech springs and Emulators up front.
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,580
Likes: 4
From: Colorado
I think what your mechanic is talking about is not only changing the bore to 1200, but also changing to 1200 gearing. I'm in the process of doing that too.
An 883 (well, an '06 at least) is revving at about 4000 RPM at 75MPH. I find that a killer for extended periods.
This fall I changed the secondary (front belt) sprocket from 28T to 30T. That helped some (about 7 1/2%). This winter I'm going to change the primary sprocket too. That's about another 10%.
These two should get me down to about 3350RPM at 75MPH, a significant drop.
My 883 has already been converted to 1200, I don't think you'd want to run this gearing on a stock 883. All in its not cheap, prob less than buying a Dyna though.
An 883 (well, an '06 at least) is revving at about 4000 RPM at 75MPH. I find that a killer for extended periods.
This fall I changed the secondary (front belt) sprocket from 28T to 30T. That helped some (about 7 1/2%). This winter I'm going to change the primary sprocket too. That's about another 10%.
These two should get me down to about 3350RPM at 75MPH, a significant drop.
My 883 has already been converted to 1200, I don't think you'd want to run this gearing on a stock 883. All in its not cheap, prob less than buying a Dyna though.
