Lowering blocks + rough road =
Lowering blocks + rough road =
Good thing I got over a 100 mile ride in today before this happened. Well, now I need to get a different type of lowering block. This will only be a quick fix until I can save money for shorter shocks. I have my brake light and plate located on the left side of the bike. I guess when this happened it also caused the filaments in the brake light bulb to brake. Also the left turn signal/running light is not working. I swapped the bulb to the other side and the bulb is good. Also have voltage at the light plug. At this point I'm hoping that some how the brake light and left running light are tied together and when I replace the bulb everything will be fine. Guess I have to wait until tomorrow before I can figure that out. Off to ebay to get new lowering links.
I'm not sure which blocks they are as they were on the bike when I bought it. Here is a picture of the good shock below. What broke was were the bottom of the shock bolts into the block on the back side of the swing arm. Going with a completely different type of block this time. They will be made out of 1/4" thick steel plate. Think these were cast.
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
From: Central Texas
I ran lowering blocks for about a month. Save as fast as you can for the shorter shocks. The difference is worth it!
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Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Detroit, MI
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Elyria, OH
For better stability, the ones that bolt on to the axle adjuster bolt may support it better, but I have seen those bend. I agree, the best thing to do is get shorter shocks. I put 12 inch Road Glide shocks on which are 1 inch longer than stock. I considered getting lowering blocks but I saw what happens to them over time and decided to go without, I ride my bike too hard to risk them breaking.
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 341
Likes: 1
Took them off when I went the other direction with 13.5 shocks