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I wouldn't use a heavier oil. Alot of ppl do but HD uses some of the heaviest oil out there. Rebuilding the forks might be a little excessive since it only has 4500 miles on the clock. You can change the fluid with the front end on the bike. There are drain screws on the rear, lower portion of each leg. Follow the instructions in your service manual and it's a breeze. Pay attention to how much drains out of each leg. Not necessarily an exact measurement but see if they're close to the same. That will tell you if you're leaking fluid in one of the legs.
[With the bike jacked up (and level), loosen the 2 lower clamp bolts that secure the lower tree to the fork legs, loosen the one clamp bolt on the upper tree that secures the neck stem and tighten the neck stem bolt until your front end has one to two inches of movement left and right before it falls away. BUT, with the 3 clamp bolts loose, loosen the neck stem bolt a little then retighten until there is no free play in the bearings (up & down)...then begin the fall away test/procedure.
Mreed is right on .....be sure and do not overlook the part about LOOSEN
the lower tripple clamp bolts.......
if you dont the forks cannot slide up in the clamp.
results? the adjustment will not hold as there is pressure trying to loosen the bearings all the time
Thanks, I did it that way. Im going to do it again tho with out the clutch cable connected.
When changing the fork fluid, how do you guys go about removing the upper fork bolts? I was thinking of using a cresent wrench with a rag. I had some snap on tools that had splastic inside for things like this. They failed to survive the torque they claimed to be capable of withstanding. So does a rag and crescent sound ok?
Thanks, I did it that way. Im going to do it again tho with out the clutch cable connected.
When changing the fork fluid, how do you guys go about removing the upper fork bolts? I was thinking of using a cresent wrench with a rag. I had some snap on tools that had splastic inside for things like this. They failed to survive the torque they claimed to be capable of withstanding. So does a rag and crescent sound ok?
Do yourself a BIG favor and order a Fork Cap Socket. It prevents damage to the cap nuts and makes reinstalling the cap nuts easier. In fact, I'd hate to try and put the cap nuts back on without one, as the caps have to be pushed back down against the fork spring tension. You also have to be careful when removing the cap nuts as they're under spring tension.
Absolutely. The fork cap socket is a huge benefit.
You need to look at the purchase of the manual and fork cap socket as a "cost vs benefit" scenerio. Sure, it's money up front that you might not need to spend for this job but with the knowledge the manual provides and how much easier it is with the socket, the benefits far exceed the cost.
Thanks cHarley....Do all Harleys have the same size fork cap?
mreed- I understand. There has been a few times I wish I had the book. So far most of it has been pretty simple. Im sure I will need it to rebuild the shock and for torque specs on everything else
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