Failed the Fall Away text :(
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Tourer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 420
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From: Rockville, VA
Failed the Fall Away text :(
I bought my bike with 4500 miles on it. Since day one Ive complained about the noise up front while slowing or stopping and the wobble. I did some research and hopefully Ive found my problem. I did the fall away and when the wheel is centered it falls to the left (shifter and kickstand side). When the wheel is an inch and a half to the right....it still falls to the left.
When I first got it off the ground it felt like it had no resistance at all. So I thought right away, "I needed to tighten this up". After the fall away test, I figured tightening might help but shouldnt have anything to do with all ways wanting to fall to the left.
I broke everything loose and tightened about a quarter turn. It feels like it might help buuuuuut Is it time to replace the bearings, right? or what else could cause this? What bearings are you guys using and where are you buying? Ive searched but I have a lot going on and maybe im searching the wrong things. Please help me out
Also wondering if any one has had any experience with the 3 or 5 degree neck bolt kit???
When I first got it off the ground it felt like it had no resistance at all. So I thought right away, "I needed to tighten this up". After the fall away test, I figured tightening might help but shouldnt have anything to do with all ways wanting to fall to the left.
I broke everything loose and tightened about a quarter turn. It feels like it might help buuuuuut Is it time to replace the bearings, right? or what else could cause this? What bearings are you guys using and where are you buying? Ive searched but I have a lot going on and maybe im searching the wrong things. Please help me out
Also wondering if any one has had any experience with the 3 or 5 degree neck bolt kit???
Last edited by ahhwataday; Feb 6, 2012 at 05:11 AM.
Your bearings are probably fine. If that bike hasn't had its 5000 mile critical fastener service your neck stem bolt has most likely loosened.
Falling to the left is not uncommon with the clutch cable hooked up still.
It seems like you know how but just in case:
With the bike jacked up (and level), loosen the 2 lower clamp bolts that secure the lower tree to the fork legs, loosen the one clamp bolt on the upper tree that secures the neck stem and tighten the neck stem bolt until your front end has one to two inches of movement left and right before it falls away. BUT, with the 3 clamp bolts loose, loosen the neck stem bolt a little then retighten until there is no free play in the bearings (up & down)...then begin the fall away test/procedure.
I can't comment on the rake kit. It will change your trail measurement and that may or may not increase your sensitivity to the feeling you're having now.
Falling to the left is not uncommon with the clutch cable hooked up still.
It seems like you know how but just in case:
With the bike jacked up (and level), loosen the 2 lower clamp bolts that secure the lower tree to the fork legs, loosen the one clamp bolt on the upper tree that secures the neck stem and tighten the neck stem bolt until your front end has one to two inches of movement left and right before it falls away. BUT, with the 3 clamp bolts loose, loosen the neck stem bolt a little then retighten until there is no free play in the bearings (up & down)...then begin the fall away test/procedure.
I can't comment on the rake kit. It will change your trail measurement and that may or may not increase your sensitivity to the feeling you're having now.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 420
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From: Rockville, VA
Thanks, Ive got it pretty tight now. It didnt seem like the cable was causing any affect on the swing or fall. But I guess it was. I may have it too tight now. It barely falls to the right, about 4 inches then falls. It swings about an inch to the left before falling.
I also put some grease in the neck when I was checkin out the bearings. I didnt remove everything but I did as you say and i lowered the bike to get the tree apart. The bearing looked fine but had little grease. Is there no zerk fitting? I didnt see what but I didnt really look for one. MAybe in the web of the frame???
I was asking about the rake bolt just incase. If I was going to replace things any way I could just buy the kit. Ive mostly heard about people sayin it will mess with the turns a little but thats fine as long as its not tooooo bad or too ugly
Thanks mreed
I also put some grease in the neck when I was checkin out the bearings. I didnt remove everything but I did as you say and i lowered the bike to get the tree apart. The bearing looked fine but had little grease. Is there no zerk fitting? I didnt see what but I didnt really look for one. MAybe in the web of the frame???
I was asking about the rake bolt just incase. If I was going to replace things any way I could just buy the kit. Ive mostly heard about people sayin it will mess with the turns a little but thats fine as long as its not tooooo bad or too ugly
Thanks mreed
No prob.
Yes, the clutch cable will definitely force the front end to the left when there's no load. It will make left fall seem to easy and right fall seem to tight. You may have it pretty close to "ok" right now actually.
That grease zerk doesn't do anything for the bearings. Sportsters don't even have them anymore. It's more to keep the steel neck stem from rusting. You have to pull & pack the bearings just like old school wheel bearings.
Yes, the clutch cable will definitely force the front end to the left when there's no load. It will make left fall seem to easy and right fall seem to tight. You may have it pretty close to "ok" right now actually.
That grease zerk doesn't do anything for the bearings. Sportsters don't even have them anymore. It's more to keep the steel neck stem from rusting. You have to pull & pack the bearings just like old school wheel bearings.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 420
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From: Rockville, VA
ahh, Should I disconnect the clutch cable and do it again?
When I had it apart I could see the lower bearing completely. I packed grease on/in it but I figured as long as its lubricated it should be fine.....its a steering neck, not high speed wheel bearing.
I havent test driven it yet. I will today I hope. My problem before was the highway wobble over 65, wobble at any speeed when I remove my hands, and clunking when I do a hard stop. Any ideas on that?
When I had it apart I could see the lower bearing completely. I packed grease on/in it but I figured as long as its lubricated it should be fine.....its a steering neck, not high speed wheel bearing.
I havent test driven it yet. I will today I hope. My problem before was the highway wobble over 65, wobble at any speeed when I remove my hands, and clunking when I do a hard stop. Any ideas on that?
Club Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 5,816
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From: SE Louisiana
The clunking was probably the slack in the neck when you hit the front brakes.
get the slack out the neck, check alignment, tire condition and pressure.
This may help.
http://www.motorcyclemetal.com/downl...e%20Simple.pdf
get the slack out the neck, check alignment, tire condition and pressure.
This may help.
http://www.motorcyclemetal.com/downl...e%20Simple.pdf
The wobble & clunking could be several things. My Electra Glide was clunking and a little wobbly and it ended up being a bad fork seal. Had less than 1 oz in one of the forks.
And to get a proper fall away measurement you will want to remove the clutch cable from the lever.
And to get a proper fall away measurement you will want to remove the clutch cable from the lever.
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Tourer
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Rockville, VA
I havent read all of that yet but thank you. I need some yard sticks.
Im hoping that I got the noise and wobble out of there but well see.
Im hoping that I got the noise and wobble out of there but well see.
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Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 420
Likes: 0
From: Rockville, VA
The wobble & clunking could be several things. My Electra Glide was clunking and a little wobbly and it ended up being a bad fork seal. Had less than 1 oz in one of the forks.
And to get a proper fall away measurement you will want to remove the clutch cable from the lever.
And to get a proper fall away measurement you will want to remove the clutch cable from the lever.
Rebuilding your forks isn't as scary as you think. They're rather primitive.
For what it's worth, When I buy a used bike one of the first things I do is rebuild the forks & change the neck bearings. Sometimes the neck bearing races & wheel bearings as well. It doesn't take very long.
For what it's worth, When I buy a used bike one of the first things I do is rebuild the forks & change the neck bearings. Sometimes the neck bearing races & wheel bearings as well. It doesn't take very long.