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I didn't get the PC-V from fuelmoto but they were nice enough to give me a custom tune for my pipes & A/C. My pipes are supposed to be delivered any time now so I was trying to have the PC-V ready so I could just slap it on & go. I did find some directions on the TPS aspect of it.
Advance, not sure if by degree or percentage though. I think degrees. I chickened out on altering my timing since they are supposedly already pretty advanced out of the box. Which is why they recommend premium oct. That, and I haven't been able to see any dyno tuned ignition MAPs to compare.
No you'll be fine. All I did was download the map to the PCV and hook it up to the bike, that's it. The problem lies in even if you have the exact same setup every motor responds differently. Not to mention you have things like humidity and elevation to factor in.
A canned map will get your bike running okay. But a dynotune will take it to the next level and if the tuner is good she'll run perfectly.
I agree. I learned this in the mustang world. The exact same motor,same mods,same elevation and humidity will run off a generic canned map differently. A dyno tune compensates for your bike in real time,and those minute variances can have a big effect while riding.
The dyno in my city costs 95 an hour. In my opinion money very well spent. They will make those fine adjustments to the map which will improve your riding experience and the engine will run better.
A canned map will get you close,but not perfect. Dyno tuning is money well spent
So I plugged PC-V in laptop, opened PC-V icon, chose 'get MAP', it appeared to load my MAP, showed my MAP in the 'notes' area @ bottom & showed my MAP tables. I'm assuming it loaded the MAP into the PC-V? Now I just need to install on bike, do the TPS calibration & I'm good to go? Also, what's the O2 optimizers? I don't think I have those. Thanks for all you help & patience.
When you select "Get MAP", it is just pulling the currently loaded MAP from the PC-V. Unless you are sure it's the right one, you will prob. want to Load MAP, choose the correct file, then Send MAP.
The O2 optimizers are the small connectors that have the green resistors in the ends. They plug in where your O2 sensors currently plug in, and you can now remove the sensors and plug the holes for about $13.
TPS CALIBRATION
is important that the PCV software TPS read
0% when the bike is fully warmed up and at idle.
If it needs to be reset make sure the bike is fully
warmed up before resetting. With the engine off
click on Reset, open throttle to the stop and
close, then click OK. If your bike has fly-by-wire
throttle only reset the throttle position on a
dynamometer.
My commentary:
It has an incorrect picture of the process and inaccurate description of the buttons. They were no more help on the phone either and the guy said he hadn't actually done one himself after telling my how easy it was. His backup plan was to provide me the values they tell all customers to enter in their Sportsters which was even more narrow than typical. It was like .6 to 3.6. WTF. They also don't tell you how to actually populate the fields with the values using the tiny arrows, nor do they tell you how to get the wide open value in there without bouncing off the rev limiter.
Here are my (probably overly) detailed instructions:
Regarding the TPS calibration: Get it all connected and squared away. Download & install the software and firmware updates. Connect your laptop to the PC-V with USB cable and update firmware if applicable and enable RevXtend if you so choose. With RevXtend, you MIGHT want to fill in the 6250 RPM tables in by hand if they aren't already filled out, else the PC-V will just use the 6000 RPM tables since there are no values in there. Start the bike and let it idle on the jiffy stand till it's up to full operating temp. Not sure what the actual temp is we're looking for here, but you will see a temp readout from I believe the cylinder head, on the laptop. (Mine hit 280-300 in no time.) Once it has hit full operating temp, go into the TPS calibration menu and after ensuring that the throttle is CLOSED and bars straight, click on the left arrow to populate the field with the closed idle value. Mine is documented here on the forums, but it was something like 0.555. You should notice your idle settle in better from where it was assuming this value was zero, because the PC-V thought that your current .555 value was actually at part throttle. If the current readout value is lower than what filled in the left table, hit the arrow again to overwrite it. Now all you have to do is populate the wide open table on the right side. Flip the run / stop switch to kill the motor and IMMEDIATELY roll the throttle wide open and click on the right arrow. You only have about 3-4 seconds to do this till the ECU loses power and reads zero. I think my wide open value was about 4.5 or so.
This is probably THE most important step in installing a PC-V, yet I don't see nearly enough emphasis on it.
Sorry for bringing this thread back from the dead, but I just wanted to say thanks a lot for the info Jackal. Just finished installing the PCV last night, and took it for a spin. I noticed some popping on decel in the exhaust and I'm thinking maybe it's because I haven't adjusted the TPS yet (too much fuel maybe?). Running the standard tune from Dyno Jet, not Fuel Moto's but I'm going to give this a shot tomorrow.Feels like a different bike with Stage 1 though!Apparently everyone is afraid of CARB out here in Cali, so no Dyno tune for me anytime soon.Thanks again for the tip and happy 4th!
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