Yes, the needle just goes through the hole.
There are 2 methods typically used in "Stage 1" tuning a carb, changing the jets or changing and shimming the needle. It sounds like someone may have tried to do both to yours and that would result in a way rich condition.
I'd start by removing the needle shims or going back to stock jets and see what happens.

BTW, it's the pilot jet that will have the most effect on your situation. The main jet really doesn't come into play until you're between 3/4 and full throttle.

 

Difficult trying to find the correct instructions, they are on the USA site which you have to then select European, only issue is the model years all look wrong.

The euro one only lists to 2000 but when you click the link you get this http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/European/.../E8102.002.pdf 89-98 ??!!

This to me looks more like it: http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/8105.pdf but it says US model only!?!

I think i am gonna follow the US instructions as the year range is correct, see how she goes and then book her into the Dyno!

 

You've jumped in where you don't know what you're doing, but sometimes that's how you learn, and this isn't really rocket science. Unfortunately, my favorite web link for all things Sportster carb isn't working now, but here's some reading that may bring you up to speed.

This is an excellent post on this forum:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/fuel-...rejetting.html

Bunch of stuff here, too. Start with "Jetting 101"; it's not excessively technical.
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s...d.php?t=642408

About the needle in that hole: those washers hold it up from going as far in; it's tapered, so that means the thicker part of the needle isn't reaching the hole and there's more room for gas to flow around it. Taking the washers off will lean the mixture back to normal, but using the right amount of washer can have a similar (some say better) effect to putting in a larger low speed jet, without affecting the gas mileage as much. I've only done this on Hondas, just re-jetted my sportster and that seems to be working fine.

You took the diaphragm off - that can be tricky to get back together. Sometimes it helps to stick the diaphragm in the freezer for a little while, to stiffen it up, before you assemble it. When you slip the carb back on the bike and hook it up, it'll be easier to get running in the ballpark without putting the air cleaner back on, but you really need that filter on when making the final mixture adjustment. Someone has definitely been in the carb with those washers on the needle, and it's possible it's not even the original or correct size needle. Might be some further work with that needle before you get it right; hope not, no fun taking it all apart again. I'd be tempted to get a new stock needle to be sure it works with the jets you're putting in. Some guys would say you'd be better to get an '88 sporty needle and set it up with that, and there are detailed how to instructions on the web, but you're probably best going with the method that's most comfortable for you; re-jetting, different needle, or combination of the two will give you similar results. If you run into something you don't understand, keep asking questions here, there's some really knowledgeable guys on this forum.

 

So after putting it all back together it still has the issue where the idle mixture screw needs winding all the way in to stop fuel pi**ing out of the float over flow. On a plus note the new throttle cables are much better :-D

The diagphram seems way to big to seat properly but I managed to get the cap back on without anything pinched.

To cut a long story short though it's running like crap, so I took it over to a local company called DynTech, used them a few times before - they're ace! They should have it on the dyno Monday.

Such a shame, we've got some amazing weather in the UK right now - defo HD riding weather :-(

 

Please let us know what the shop finds out about the carb problem. Good to have some extra carb knowledge.

John

 

Will do!

 

Check your float adjustment, sounds like you may also need a new float valve, or some crap is keeping the valve from seating. Also make sure the tiny O-ring on the mixture screw is still there and in good shape. A 180 should be okay for now, would not have much effect in the lower throttle range which is what you need sorted out. You shouldn't need anything bigger than a stock 42 idle jet, a 45 would likely work if that's whats in there now. I would get rid of the needle if it is a dynojet, and try an N0KK, N4NN, N65C, N65A or whatever is stock for your model. The shims won't affect the lower part of the throttle range, they only dictate how early the needle comes on taper, and thus the main jet. They help tune out any part throttle lean conditions. Personally I use a 42-175 with an N65C shimmed .038 with the needle about 2.5 turns out. Stock '05 1200C with punched baffles. No farts, no stumbles and 45-50 mpg cruise.

 

Good luck men

 

So got her back yesterday, now running sweet!

Turns out the float needle that cam in the kit I ordered was faulty! They replaced and set her up, left the jetting as 45/180. Also, fitted the diaphragm correctly She pulled 48.9bhp on the Dyno, not bad for a 10yr old girl!!

Down side I got them to look at my busted front brake, turns out previous owner had mixed DOT4 and DOT5 :-(

Ended up costing me Ł359 all in all, hoping I'll forget that after a summer of riding!

 

That's an odd one, for sure. Congratulations on getting her up and running, too bad about the brake fluid problem.

John