Brake Light
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: New Jersey
Brake Light
I'm new to riding and this forum. I bought a 2004 Sportster last fall and put 1,000 miles on it through the winter (it was warm in the Northeast). I had the 5,000 mile service done last weekend. This week I decided to change the grips. I watched a video online and it seemed easy enough. I changed the grips pretty easily but now I don't think my brake light works. I never checked it before or after the 5,000 mile service. All of the other functions seem ok, i.e. blinkers, start and the horn.
Is it possible that I screwed up the brake light changing the grips? Also, wouldn't the brake light still function normally when applying the rear brake? Could they have not checked the brake lights during the service?
Also, can anyone recommend baffles for my bike with Screaming Eagle II Pipes? The guy at the dealership said that they don't make baffles for those pipes, but somebody else told me that you can get them. Would I have to adjust the carburetor if I installed baffles? I'm not looking to make the bike quieter, just improve low RPM HP.
Thanks for any advice.
Is it possible that I screwed up the brake light changing the grips? Also, wouldn't the brake light still function normally when applying the rear brake? Could they have not checked the brake lights during the service?
Also, can anyone recommend baffles for my bike with Screaming Eagle II Pipes? The guy at the dealership said that they don't make baffles for those pipes, but somebody else told me that you can get them. Would I have to adjust the carburetor if I installed baffles? I'm not looking to make the bike quieter, just improve low RPM HP.
Thanks for any advice.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,569
Likes: 10
From: Royal Palm Beach, FL
I would start with checking the bulb, then the fuses. I dont see how changing the grips could have messed up yer break. If those 2 things are good then does your break light turn on when you use your front break and not your rear , or vise versa? Could be one of the brake switches.
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Knoxville, TN
I agree with Wilburz. My first thought was the front brake switch. I imagine you unhooked the right handlebar controls when changing the grip? You have to make sure the brake lever lines up correctly with the front brake switch (little button on control that gets released to activate brake light).
Novice
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 18
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From: MARYLAND
Voltage for the rear brake light comes from/through the front brake switch. That's why neither works. Your front brake light switch is either broken or it's plunger is stuck in.
Get the HD service manual if you don't have it. & do a internet search on the switch repair. Please post your solution when you get it fixed.
Yeah we sure got spoiled this winter. Good luck!
BTW a broken switch may have caused the brake light switch to stay on & burn out the bulb. & or blow the fuse.
Get the HD service manual if you don't have it. & do a internet search on the switch repair. Please post your solution when you get it fixed.
Yeah we sure got spoiled this winter. Good luck!
BTW a broken switch may have caused the brake light switch to stay on & burn out the bulb. & or blow the fuse.
Last edited by ampman; Mar 23, 2012 at 11:30 PM. Reason: tech.
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: New Jersey
Thanks for all the suggestions. My guess is that it is the brake light plunger is stuck in. The tail light is on and I can't remember if it is always on and just gets brighter when the brakes are applied.
I'll post the fix once it's done.
I'll post the fix once it's done.
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: New Jersey
Thanks for all the suggestions. My guess is that it is the brake light plunger is stuck in. The tail light is on and I can't remember if it is always on and just gets brighter when the brakes are applied.
I'll post the fix once it's done.
I'll post the fix once it's done.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,260
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From: Batesville Ga
Before removing the front master cylinder did you insert a piece of cardboard between the brake lever and the housing at the pivot point? If you fail to do this - or if you do it incorrectly - the odds of ruining the brake switch soar. BTDT.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 70
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From: New Jersey
I didn't touch anything by the front brake. I assume the fron master cylinder is near the brake pad/rotor. I should disclose that I'm not particularly good wit fixing any type of motor vehicle. All I did was open the housing by the throttle and put a new grip in. I did not have any problems getting the throttle cables back on. I didn't think I even went near the brake lever or any brake switch since it looks like the brake lever is separate from the throttle housing. I obviously had to tug on the housing a bit to get enough room to get the throttle cables off and on. I certainly did not tug on it too hard since all of the switches that are wired into housing are working normally.
The breaks work but the light does not. The rear light is always on. Is that normal? Or does it usually stay on and just get brighter when the brakes are applied.
The breaks work but the light does not. The rear light is always on. Is that normal? Or does it usually stay on and just get brighter when the brakes are applied.
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 16,320
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From: Boynton Beach, FloriDuh
FYI your front BRAKE master cylinder in on the handle bar right next to the front brake lever. Odds are very high that you broke the front brake switch actuator.