Got the bike all back together. I decided not to post the step by step on putting it back together because it would be redundant. All you have to do is follow the previous posts in reverse order. Make sure you use the torque specs in your book.

Got the pistons and jugs in on Fri. I am extermely glad we went with the 1250. The cylinder walls are alot thicker than if we would have had the stock jugs bored to a 1200.

Started working on the bike at 8am Sunday. First thing that happened was I pushed the piston out of the jug. Not the way I wanted to start out. Got it back in after a few tries. Circlips went in with no problem. We lowered the jug down and saw that it wouldnt clear the holder for the push rod covers. The fins stuck out about 1/4" to much. Got out the grinder and took off the excess fin.


We then just went step by step using the chapter for Top End Installation in the manual.

Before we put the carb back on we had to drill out the cover to be able to get at the air/fuel mixture screw. Take a small drill bit and EASILY drill into the plug. Do not push to hard otherwise you will shove the drill into screw and have real problems. The drill will break thru at about 1/4". Take a wood screw and screw it into the drilled hole until it gets a good grip on the plug. Then just pull the plug out.

I am going to set the idle mixture and speed using these directions because a S/E air filter has been installed.They were done up by a person called Mauriece Riggins. All the credit goes to him. I am just going to follow his directions.

Setting Idle Mixture and Speed
Note: This MUST be done with the air cleaner installed because it affects the idle mixture significantly.
[ol][*]With a flat blade screwdriver, turn the idle MIXTURE screw (the one you drilled the cap off) full in (clockwise) GENTLY until it seats... GENTLY (get the picture?), then turn it out (open, counterclockwise) exactly two full turns. Leave the idle SPEED screw (top right side of the carb looking at it above the air cleaner) where it was before.[*]Turn the fuel valve to on, pull the choke fully out, and start the engine. If you drained the fuel bowl, it will crank for as much as 20-30 seconds without starting while the bowl fills. Once the engine has started push the choke in about 1/2 way and then wait about 2 minutes. Then push the choke in all the way, and if you must do so to keep the engine running, open the throttle slightly. You can keep it there with the throttle lock, the star shaped screw below the right switch housing. Once the engine is fully warm (rear rocker cover is hot to the touch), fully release the throttle lock and make sure the throttle is fully closed. The engine should be idling, perhaps nicely, perhaps not.[*]With a flat blade or phillips screwdriver, turn the idle SPEED screw in (clockwise) about two full turns until the engine is idling fast.
WARNING: the crossover pipe is HOT. You should adjust the idle MIXTURE with at least heavy cotton or leather work gloves (not your good ones) to protect from burns. Use a short screwdriver so the handle will not melt on the crossover pipe.[*]With a flat blade screwdriver turn the idle MIXTURE screw in (clockwise) GENTLY until it fully seats. The engine should not die. If it does, turn the idle MIXTURE screw back out the two full turns and go back to step 3, increasing the idle speed setting (in clockwise another turn).[*]Now turn the idle SPEED screw out (counterclockwise) just until the engine dies or is stumbling badly. The idle speed is now set correctly. This is an easy way to set it without a tach. It will result in the idle speed being a little high, which will give more oil to lubricate the engine. If the idle speed is too low, insufficient oil will be pumped.[*]Now turn the idle MIXTUR

 

Thanks again for the detailed post on your project - I'll be starting mine in a few weeks and the pictures are invaluable. I'm certain that everyone here appreciates the extra time you took.

BTW - which tach did you use?

 

Yes, thanks for all this 411. 'bout to give me a woody...guess I'll have to order dat thar kit.

Since you didn't mention it, I assume it didn't dump the wife on her *** when she took off the first time...??

 

douge_2000..Its a Harley tach. Got it from the dealer.

Sportypig..LOL..not even close. She is to nervous now because she dosent know how much power will be there. This spring will be a whole diferent story.

 

Hey bubbas1,
Got two questions......
Did ya'll have fun ?
How does it feel to have all that Sporty knowledge now ?
Congrats to you both.....It is an experience you'll never forget.

 

Not hearing much bubbas1....how did that 1250 sound ? I'm waiting to hear something about the increase in pull with that 1250 and 883 gears. Man, I have to really hang on tight when I roll the throttle. I'm over the 300 mile breakin so I let her rip on an on-ramp with no cagers coming. The only thing that came to mind was "Holy Sh*t". After dropping into 5th I was doing almost 90 so I must have been close to the limiter.I rolled it back at 100 and cruised at 75-80 for the rest of the trip.
I was going to get a 1200transmission sprocket ( rear wheel sprockets are the same) but I don't see going from 28 teeth to 29 teeth is going to make much difference.
Let us know what's goin' on..!!
Olesalt

 

Awesome post!!

 

olesalt... The sound that comes from the pipes now is awesome. Its alot deeper. I only took the bike around the block once.( I am to tall for the bike and my legs cramp up when I ride it. The wife heat cycled the motor but never took it out of 3rd gear (didnt go over 45mph) She says she can tell there is a major diference now in power. She wont open it up any more until the motor is completely broke in. That wont happen till the spring because winter is about arrive again tommorow. But at least the conversion is done so we are happy about that.

To anyone that is thinking about doing this conversion I would say to do it yourself. There wasnt anything really difficult about doing it. Dont know how hard it would have been to switch the cams but as far as just doing the jugs and pistons it was pretty simple. Plus I found out that if you have any problem all you have to do is ask here and there are plenty of folks that are more than willing to lead you in the right direction.

 

how is the ride though???? would you say it is a little more rough with the increase in power.....meaning more vibrations???? is the engine louder than before is it just like this crazy beast of a bike that is uncomfortable to ride say in long rides??? b/c i have ann 883 and want mroe power but i also like taking LONG rides that are somewhat comfy...atleast for a sportster

 

Chrism84,
For my conversion the vibration is noticably increased. I was told by a knowledgable indy that was due to more mass (bigger pistons) and more bang when the mixture fires. The V&H pipes sound awesome behind the 1200 engine. The tradeoff for the increased vibration is a very quick bike & healthy sounding machine.