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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 08:50 AM
  #11  
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EveHD
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From: Dutchess County, NY
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Originally Posted by Ironman 883
If you wanna stop the carb farts get a breather kit, it's not because the bike is to lean.

Just learn how to avoid making the bike do it. I have a 01 with the stock gaskets that probably look like total hell and I can avoid the popping completely. Let the bike warm up and give it enough gas to do it's thing while your temps are under normal. When you gas it try not to crack the throttle, what I mean by that is short quick jerks on the grip give it nice slow 500rpm throws. Once you get up to temp it's a lot easier to avoid. When you down shift if you don't want it to pop just do it nice and easy.

I think a normal HD motor chugs, that is kinda what it's famous for. Or maybe your bike runs horrible bad, post a video of it and maybe we can help more. But I'd say with only 3k miles on the bike, you just have a simple leak, or aren't quite used to it yet brotha.
+1 - Agree - Slow and steady on the throttle till you're up to temp.
(here I go thinking like a nurse)
You said you only had it out 3x's - What are you doing exactly when it does this (eg, speed, idling, uphill, shifting, braking, slowing down, speeding up)?
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 05:40 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Car Doc
Mind explaining what you are talking about Ironman? I am not familiar enough with Harley's yet to know what you refer to "breather kit" and just what does it do to stop carb farts sorry to the OP not trying to jack your thread bud just learning too.
A breather kit will use subsidiarity plumbing to reroute oil blown for the crank to the air filter assembly, to a less maintained filter on the bike. It better distributes crank off oil pressure causing the pop, and stalling effects of the manufactured assembly. Also re plumbs the nasty oil on to the road instead of your oil tank, exhaust, passenger ect.

Not to mention they are extremely cheap (if you don'y just make one yourself). Try searching for threads by 'mreed' or DIY breather installs. It's one of the easy things to do, requiring no extensive mechanical ability, and around the garage tools.

To the OP: I really wouldn't give up man, I wish I could help but without more information or a video I can't really point you were to go. If you can get it to a dealer, just have a shop hand come look at it for you or post up more.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 05:48 PM
  #13  
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Ironman 883
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Originally Posted by spacelegs
It did have a stock exhaust, until the guy I took it to took the baffles out or something to that effect. It's lound as hell and breathes way better than it did before. I think I know more of what Ironman is talking about. More or less to take the cover off the filter and have it exposed to air to make it breathe better. They make kits for it. At least thats what I keep getting told.
See the above post about the breather kit. On these bikes, although what some think, just taking out the baffles is a bad move. Your exhaust now has very minimal back pressure, that it requires. This is probably the main, if not only cause of your popping problem. Basically the vacuum of the motor is now substantially lower then that of a manufactured model. You could get some OEM slip ons to fix the problem; or upgrade to a better exhaust, and air assembly (stage 2). For you to avoid the popping is probably 2 or 3 times harder then for me (OEM parts) because without the baffles and a stock air filter, its TRYING to shoot the exhaust gasses out instead of trying to suck air.

EDIT: Also a tested fact is removing the baffles from a OEM system DECREASES engine performance, I believe up to 15hp and DECREASES the torque curve as well.
 

Last edited by Ironman 883; Jul 14, 2012 at 05:51 PM.
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 06:29 PM
  #14  
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IRON1250
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From: New Hampshire
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When you start messing with the exhaust and air flow it usually requires some rejetting of the carb to get the right air fuel mixture. a poor mixture is sure to lead to the type of popping you describe. Have you pulled your plugs after a good long ride and got a look at them. if you can do that and post a picture it would give us an idea of your a/f mixture.
 

Last edited by IRON1250; Jul 14, 2012 at 06:33 PM.
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 10:10 AM
  #15  
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Ok thanks for the answer Ironman 883 that gives me something.

fwtw I am a driveabillity expert on cars I do it for a living not bragging its just my occupation I have to fully understand the dynamics to do it right to stay in business. Granted this is an air cooled carburated 2 cyl but it is a 4 stroke gas engine they all work alike.

Anyway here is my theory right or wrong-My gut feeling on this bike's troubles and mine is a bigger better timed accel pump shot and a different base timing setting would fix it or at least improve the driveabillity.

I realize the base timing is fixed by the crank sensor and not adjustable as is but a different flash in the ecu could easily fix that. I plan on teaching myself this ignition system to prove or disprove my thoughts eventually if it gets to bothering me bad enough and I cant adjust it out or if the breather kit doesn't work. edit: found a pic of the breather kit am posting it for the OP. not sure how or if the air filter back fits after installing this but here it is.

Reason they backfire is imo the quick drop in vacuum as the throttle is cracked causes the (assuming the map is operating properly) map signal to cause the ecu to retard the timing too far imo causing ignition to occur while an intake valve is open and a backfire occurs. I am not 100% sure a remote mounted and pressure dampened map sensor signal hose wouldn't help but thats purely my .002 ymmv as always

edit: backfiring will damage most automotive map sensors and pressure sensors so dont know if these sensors are improved versions or not but a car sensor would be toast with what mine has been thru. the one on my bike looks exactly like a GM fuel tank pressure sensor fact its made by Delphi a GM/Toyota venture fwtw. I haven't done the research yet on part numbers but I may replace mine just for diagnostic purposes and maybe put the check valve/dampener in for the hell of it also maybe even a crank sensor. fwtw.
 

Last edited by Car Doc; Jan 10, 2013 at 04:27 PM.
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 07:56 PM
  #16  
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Thank for the info everyone. I did a long ride for the first time the other day and it seems after you hit 40+ mph and have been on the road for 15 minutes, it runs awesome! I think a lot of the things I'm noticing is on the start up and that I'm just impatient and think it should run good from the start. It's also that I've spent a lotta money on it already and wanted it to be more turn key than the way it turned out. I didn't want to have to do all this work to it and it kind of took away that new bike experience. I just have to be more positive with it. I'll keep everyone posted on how it rides this week. Thanks to all of you for the help!!!

p.s. ill try to get pic's up here to!!!
 
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 08:04 PM
  #17  
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Good to see you got it going. Not sure where you are in Iowa but if you were close I could come up and lend a hand. I'd run a couple tanks of 91(no alcohol) with Sea Foam, and see if it all but smoothes out.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 10:21 PM
  #18  
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Glad to hear man! Maybe upgrade in the future to a EFI bike for that turn key effec. But youll miss the potato sound in the exhaust!
 
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