Derby & Timer Cover DIY
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 245
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From: Sweden
Derby & Timer Cover DIY
So, as posted in another thread, I went and bought me some Willie G derby, AC and timer covers.
Pardon me if I sound like an ignoramus, but how easy is it to swap the stock covers off?
A) Derby cover...I'm guessing there are washers or rubber seals to deal with, and is there chance of oil leaks? Can I change it out while on the jiffy stand?
B) Timer cover...this ought to be fairly straightforward, I guess?
C) AC cover...you lnow the boring 1200 plate on the ham can...easy too?
I dont have a garage and park in an uderground parking lot with no space to lay out the surgeons toolkit, so your valuable insights will be much appreciated!
Pardon me if I sound like an ignoramus, but how easy is it to swap the stock covers off?
A) Derby cover...I'm guessing there are washers or rubber seals to deal with, and is there chance of oil leaks? Can I change it out while on the jiffy stand?
B) Timer cover...this ought to be fairly straightforward, I guess?
C) AC cover...you lnow the boring 1200 plate on the ham can...easy too?
I dont have a garage and park in an uderground parking lot with no space to lay out the surgeons toolkit, so your valuable insights will be much appreciated!
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 8,585
Likes: 4,019
From: San Diego, CA
Derby cover, use a Torx T-27 bit, there should be a big O-ring seal under the cover itself. Lean bike against a wall on the right side and you won't leak any fluid. Be careful not to strip the heads of the Torx screws, might be wise to switch to allen head cap screws for the future.
Timer cover: on mine, you have to drill out the rivets and re-rivet, or tap and use some screws.
1200 emblem: on mine, just held by the cover screws, comes right off. I put one on my 883 but painted it with hammer coat black.
Of course, my bike is much older than yours, but not that much has changed.
John
John
Timer cover: on mine, you have to drill out the rivets and re-rivet, or tap and use some screws.
1200 emblem: on mine, just held by the cover screws, comes right off. I put one on my 883 but painted it with hammer coat black.
Of course, my bike is much older than yours, but not that much has changed.
John
John
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 988
Likes: 8
From: Clinton IA
Not sure on the timer cover, but the AC plate is as easy as you think it is... just two screws and it comes right off.
The derby cover has a big quad ring on the inside like mentioned. You should remove the cover with the bike as level as possible, a scrap piece of 2x4 under the kickstand will get it upright enough on mine... it would be best if you had a lift. If it's just on the jiffy stand, you can/will lose some transmission fluid. You might get a few drips no matter what... if you are due for a change on the fluid, it would be easiest to do when you have it drained...
The derby cover has a big quad ring on the inside like mentioned. You should remove the cover with the bike as level as possible, a scrap piece of 2x4 under the kickstand will get it upright enough on mine... it would be best if you had a lift. If it's just on the jiffy stand, you can/will lose some transmission fluid. You might get a few drips no matter what... if you are due for a change on the fluid, it would be easiest to do when you have it drained...
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 339
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From: roaming USA
All of it is super easy to do. Just be careful with your derby cover seal. You may lose a bit of fluid but not much, don't sweat it, just clean it up. Heck, if I can do it, anyone can with the right tools.
Like someone else said, get a service manual. That WILL be the best money you've ever spent on your bike.
Like someone else said, get a service manual. That WILL be the best money you've ever spent on your bike.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
This. But make sure you use a torque wrench when putting the derby cover back on. The threaded ports for the screws strip real easily. Recommend lower setting of the 84-108 in-lb range.
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Supporter
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Earth
Since you bought all H-D parts they will include torque values. Invest in both an inch-pound and foot-pound torque wrench and as said previously get the factory service manual. It will prove invaluable.
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Sweden
Thanks guys! Really appreciate all the info.
Have ordered a small set of tools with the invaluable torque wrench & air pressure gauge to boot. Will get the HD service manual as suggested!
My only worry is that I dont have a garage and park in an underground lot...not much space to tinker, but love will find a way!
@Modular...no need to de-rivet the timer cover, eh? Do they just have bolts in the 2011 and 2012 XLC?
Sry, I know I cld look at mike ride, but I'm on a trip overseas and separation anxiety is killing me, so I figured I wld read up & order stuff so as not to waste time.
Have ordered a small set of tools with the invaluable torque wrench & air pressure gauge to boot. Will get the HD service manual as suggested!
My only worry is that I dont have a garage and park in an underground lot...not much space to tinker, but love will find a way!
@Modular...no need to de-rivet the timer cover, eh? Do they just have bolts in the 2011 and 2012 XLC?
Sry, I know I cld look at mike ride, but I'm on a trip overseas and separation anxiety is killing me, so I figured I wld read up & order stuff so as not to waste time.