Changing Fork Oil/Springs
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 352
Likes: 4
From: Central Oklahoma
Which P/N did you install for your progressive springs?
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 352
Likes: 4
From: Central Oklahoma
I got the kit number 11-1527, which is just the drop in replacement kit, not the lowering or heavy duty kit.
I got the Progressives because I upgraded my rear shocks with the Street Glide air shocks and after doing that, I really felt how bad the front end was.
It improved the ride quite a bit. I used to bottom out rough roads, or RR crossings and these springs took care of all that. When I'm on the brakes in the front, I get a lot less "dive" too. I ride the same route to work every day and know all the bumps and rough areas are, a lot of the smaller bumps I used to feel I don't feel at all, and the bigger bumps a less sharp or jarring if that makes sense. It's not "floating on a cloud" smooth, but it's a big improvement, with no downside besides it costs money to do.
I got the Progressives because I upgraded my rear shocks with the Street Glide air shocks and after doing that, I really felt how bad the front end was.
It improved the ride quite a bit. I used to bottom out rough roads, or RR crossings and these springs took care of all that. When I'm on the brakes in the front, I get a lot less "dive" too. I ride the same route to work every day and know all the bumps and rough areas are, a lot of the smaller bumps I used to feel I don't feel at all, and the bigger bumps a less sharp or jarring if that makes sense. It's not "floating on a cloud" smooth, but it's a big improvement, with no downside besides it costs money to do.
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 352
Likes: 4
From: Central Oklahoma
For some reason I didn't think the 1527 had the spacer with the drop in kit? What oil type and weight did you use? Thanks!
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 988
Likes: 8
From: Clinton IA
I also used the full spacer length like cHarley did, I believe it's 3". The spacer is nothing more than PVC tubing, not unlike the plumbing in your house. It can be trimmed to add/lessen preload on the springs. There is a washer that comes with the kit that goes between the spring and the spacer. Again, I followed the directions that came with the Progressive kit, and the full 3" long spacer was right on the money.
The air shocks I installed are the 12" shocks from a Street Glide. Stock length on my custom is 11.5", but the air shocks actually measured 11.75", so my ride height change wasn't enough to even notice.
Last edited by edgeofinsanity; Aug 14, 2012 at 02:27 PM.
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 352
Likes: 4
From: Central Oklahoma
I used the stock HD fork oil , I believe it's type E. I determined the amount of oil by what Progressive said to use in the installation instructions that came with the springs. It's not a measurement in oz, but a distance from the top of the fork to the level of oil. That's with the forks extended... i.e. on a lift. You can use less or more to tune your suspension a bit, but I was happy with it as is.
I also used the full spacer length like cHarley did, I believe it's 3". The spacer is nothing more than PVC tubing, not unlike the plumbing in your house. It can be trimmed to add/lessen preload on the springs. There is a washer that comes with the kit that goes between the spring and the spacer. Again, I followed the directions that came with the Progressive kit, and the full 3" long spacer was right on the money.
The air shocks I installed are the 12" shocks from a Street Glide. Stock length on my custom is 11.5", but the air shocks actually measured 11.75", so my ride height change wasn't enough to even notice.
I also used the full spacer length like cHarley did, I believe it's 3". The spacer is nothing more than PVC tubing, not unlike the plumbing in your house. It can be trimmed to add/lessen preload on the springs. There is a washer that comes with the kit that goes between the spring and the spacer. Again, I followed the directions that came with the Progressive kit, and the full 3" long spacer was right on the money.
The air shocks I installed are the 12" shocks from a Street Glide. Stock length on my custom is 11.5", but the air shocks actually measured 11.75", so my ride height change wasn't enough to even notice.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 6,478
Likes: 12
From: Nashville, TN
That's true, if you're able to get an accurate measurement from the top of the forks.
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 421
Likes: 1
From: louisiana
I did mine over the Winter, I got a great deal on some Progressive springs (P/N 11-1157) and changed the oil since I was going to have the caps off, even though I was only at like 6k miles.
I did mine by myself, it wasn't too bad. You'll need a socket, I think a 1 3/8" works, but there are specialty sockets out there. Don't use a 12pt socket, it won't work (don't ask me how I know), you want a 6 point socket. If I had to do it over again, I would have got the special tool.
Short version:
Get the bike on the lift. Cover your tank and speedo/riser with a blanket or jacket or something. Remove the top caps of the forks. Be careful at the end, they are under pressure from the stock springs and will pop up with some force.
Remove the little oil drain screw at the bottom of the fork. I used a zip lock bag which I placed over the bottom of the fork and taped around the top to catch the oil. Then I just lowered the bike to the ground and raised it back up with the jack, and repeated until all the oil was out. The oil squirts out with some force, if you have someone helping, have them hold the bag to make sure you catch it all, the oil stinks... bad.
For me, I just followed Progressive's instructions, their springs a shorter than stock and require a spacer. You have to refill the oil with the bike up on the lift, without the springs in, and measure from the top. I used a flashlight and a tape measure. I don't remember how much oil I used, but I did have to buy two bottles of oil. I just used the stock Harley oil since that's what was available on a Saturday afternoon.
I saw a lot of people posting on how hard it was to get the caps back on, but I didn't have any trouble at all. It took a couple tries to get them lined up just right, but wasn't bad at all.
I did mine by myself, it wasn't too bad. You'll need a socket, I think a 1 3/8" works, but there are specialty sockets out there. Don't use a 12pt socket, it won't work (don't ask me how I know), you want a 6 point socket. If I had to do it over again, I would have got the special tool.
Short version:
Get the bike on the lift. Cover your tank and speedo/riser with a blanket or jacket or something. Remove the top caps of the forks. Be careful at the end, they are under pressure from the stock springs and will pop up with some force.
Remove the little oil drain screw at the bottom of the fork. I used a zip lock bag which I placed over the bottom of the fork and taped around the top to catch the oil. Then I just lowered the bike to the ground and raised it back up with the jack, and repeated until all the oil was out. The oil squirts out with some force, if you have someone helping, have them hold the bag to make sure you catch it all, the oil stinks... bad.
For me, I just followed Progressive's instructions, their springs a shorter than stock and require a spacer. You have to refill the oil with the bike up on the lift, without the springs in, and measure from the top. I used a flashlight and a tape measure. I don't remember how much oil I used, but I did have to buy two bottles of oil. I just used the stock Harley oil since that's what was available on a Saturday afternoon.
I saw a lot of people posting on how hard it was to get the caps back on, but I didn't have any trouble at all. It took a couple tries to get them lined up just right, but wasn't bad at all.
Pinetop