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Unless you're canyon carving or road racing, your rotors(s) a shouldn't be so hot you can't touch them after getting off the bike. If the rotor is that hot, then the pads are probably dragging. Did your dealer check for a warped rotor? If they didn't, check it your self. Get the front wheel off the ground, spin it and do a visual check. You can shine a flashlight in the caliper area where the rotors meet the pads... do both sides for S&G. You can usually identify a caliper or rotor issue pretty easily. Also, the dealer should have at the very least used a scotch bright pad to clean the rotors before installing new pads. I do that unless I'm installing new rotors, and I always pre-bed the pads. Lightly rubbing the pads over a piece of 220 grit sand paper on a flat surface a few times. On the purging of the brake lines, pickup a Mityvac...makes it much easier.
Well...the whole story is that I had added DOT 3 brake fluid into a DOT 5 system (my novice mistake). After about 2 months, The calipers were starting to stick as told by my brake handle not returning to home and brake light stuck on since the electrical switch was not made. So, I took it back to the dealer and explained what happened. They did a rebuild of the master cylinder and brake calipers, new rubber brake lines (duals) and flushed out the contaminated brake fluid for a $500 bill. So, the brakes work ok now and the brake light is corrected but left hand brake disk seems to heat up. Maybe that one piston is still stuck.
Ok so just put a jack under the bike and raise the front wheel up so you can freespin it by hand then squeeze your front brake lever hard/release it then check your freespin on your front wheel.
Try this several times to see if one of your calipers is sticking.
If the caliper is not releasing from the disk fully and dragging just take your bike back to the shop you had do the work and make them rebuild that caliper at their expense.
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