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DK Coil/Ignition Relocation Kit Needed Additional Modification

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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 09:53 AM
  #11  
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Yes, I had the same issue. I used a grinding wheel and took a good "whack" of material out of the key housing for clearance. Haven't experienced it since.

It is very tight without the tank lift indeed!

 
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 03:06 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by 2fast4trouble
No worries. Like I wrote before, I am very happy with your product. I am thinking that the way I tucked the wires may have moved the tank to the left a bit. This is just part of modding out our scoots, I suppose.

By the way, I re-read your instruction and you did mention clearances in there.
Ok, we checked with our HD rep and they said no changes on the 2013 from previous years.

A couple of possibilities:

The coil relo bracket has slotted holes where it bolts to the heads. Move it all the way back in the slots to get the ignition switch further from the fuel QD.

The holes where the coil bolts to the bracket are purposely oversized so that you can move the coil around to keep it centered.

Make sure your tank is centered on the backbone, not skewed to the left side.

There may be a piece of debris in your QD that is allowing it to disconnect more easily than it should, or it could be defective.

The ignition, where it is bolted to the bracket can be swiveled, make sure it is positioned in the best possible location to be furthest from the QD.

We are going to update our instructions to include more info on keeping the ignition housing away from the QD, including that it may be possible that a portion of the plastic housing has to be cut away to allow clearance.

We are very sorry for the hassle this has been for you. Please feel free to call or email us with any other questions.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 05:52 PM
  #13  
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^^ noted. good to know. just got my kit, installing this weekend
 
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 06:40 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by DK Custom
Ok, we checked with our HD rep and they said no changes on the 2013 from previous years.

A couple of possibilities:

The coil relo bracket has slotted holes where it bolts to the heads. Move it all the way back in the slots to get the ignition switch further from the fuel QD.

The holes where the coil bolts to the bracket are purposely oversized so that you can move the coil around to keep it centered.

Make sure your tank is centered on the backbone, not skewed to the left side.

There may be a piece of debris in your QD that is allowing it to disconnect more easily than it should, or it could be defective.

The ignition, where it is bolted to the bracket can be swiveled, make sure it is positioned in the best possible location to be furthest from the QD.

We are going to update our instructions to include more info on keeping the ignition housing away from the QD, including that it may be possible that a portion of the plastic housing has to be cut away to allow clearance.

We are very sorry for the hassle this has been for you. Please feel free to call or email us with any other questions.
Thanks for your prompt reply. Great customer support. I did a couple of things to comply with your suggestions.

- Moved the bracket as far as it would go away from the fuel QD.

- Re-tucked the wires to ensure that the gas tank is centered on the backbone. (actually fit three washers on the left side and two on the right)

- Filed the ignition switch cover some more and gave the cover about 1/4" or 3/8" clearance from the fuel QD.

- Tilted the ignition switch forward a bit just to give it more clearance.

- Checked the fuel QD and fuel hose for fitment (pushed and tugged).

I took her for a 30 mile ride with zero issues. So far I think that fixed the issue. I think some QD's are more sensitive than others. I just got one that is just too quick to disconnect.

I went ahead and filed the ignition switch cover, so that if I had to bring it to the dealer for a new QD or something they can't blame it on the mod. I DON'T WANT TO GET IN THE MIDDLE OF A BLAME GAME BETWEEN DK AND HD.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 01:34 PM
  #15  
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After a week and 200 miles, I am glad to report that I have not had any issues with the fuel lines. I am sure that filing/cutting down the ignition switch cover a bit, keeps it from contacting the fuel QD, which causes the fuel hose to pop off.
 

Last edited by 2fast4trouble; Nov 11, 2012 at 06:55 PM.
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 02:00 PM
  #16  
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Maybe you damaged the QD when you diassembled? Sounds like you are under warranty, so maybe it needs a new fuel line? It does not sound like the switch housing can disconnect a hose coupling.

John
 
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 04:06 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 2fast4trouble
After a week and 200 miles, I am glad to report that I have not had any issues with the fuel lines. I am sure that filing/cutting down the ignition switch cover a bit keeps it from contacting the fuel QD, which causes the fuel hose to pop off.

Cool!

We have added some lines to our instructions for those that are installing the Coil/Key without a tank lift.

If you are not using a tank lift, it is possible that the relocated ignition housing will be very close (or even touching) the fuel quick-disconnect. There are a few things you can do to add some clearance:
  • The coil relo bracket has slotted holes where it bolts to the heads. Move it all the way back in the slots to get the ignition switch further from the fuel QD.
  • The ignition, where it is bolted to the bracket can be swiveled, make sure it is positioned in the best possible location to be furthest from the QD.
  • Make sure your tank is centered on the backbone, not skewed to the left side.
  • If you are still having a clearance issue, you can cut away some of the plastic to prevent it from touching the fuel QD.

I am happy you have it resolved, and thank you again for your feedback.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 06:55 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by John Harper
Maybe you damaged the QD when you diassembled? Sounds like you are under warranty, so maybe it needs a new fuel line? It does not sound like the switch housing can disconnect a hose coupling.

John
I am not a professional mechanic, but how do you damage a QD by doing what it is designed to do? I lifted the sleeve on the QD, which unlocked the hose and I pulled it off once it was loose. Not really that complicated.

My theory is that the ribbed sleeve of the QD catches the edged of the vibrating ignition switch cover, lifts it, and pops the hose off when the engine is running.

Originally Posted by DK Custom
Cool!

We have added some lines to our instructions for those that are installing the Coil/Key without a tank lift.

If you are not using a tank lift, it is possible that the relocated ignition housing will be very close (or even touching) the fuel quick-disconnect. There are a few things you can do to add some clearance:
  • The coil relo bracket has slotted holes where it bolts to the heads. Move it all the way back in the slots to get the ignition switch further from the fuel QD.
  • The ignition, where it is bolted to the bracket can be swiveled, make sure it is positioned in the best possible location to be furthest from the QD.
  • Make sure your tank is centered on the backbone, not skewed to the left side.
  • If you are still having a clearance issue, you can cut away some of the plastic to prevent it from touching the fuel QD.

I am happy you have it resolved, and thank you again for your feedback.
Kudos to you for being responsive. I get lots of compliments with the set up. Keep up the good work.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2013 | 03:42 PM
  #19  
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Definitely going with an F6 relo without tank lift. Perhaps a tank lift later when I want to be a bit more aggressive Glad everything worked out. Ordering..now.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2013 | 07:59 AM
  #20  
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201348hd
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Originally Posted by Yolanda Loafer
Definitely going with an F6 relo without tank lift. Perhaps a tank lift later when I want to be a bit more aggressive Glad everything worked out. Ordering..now.
Wow you woke up an old thread. If you look on the dk website it recommends the f6 relocation for the 48 because of the fuel QD. I wouldn't be surprised if this thread was part of the reason for the F6 kit being developed.
 
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