wire tuck problem
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Anyway, a blown fuse means you have a dead short to ground or there's been the introduction of another source to this circuit therefore adding more amps and overloading the fuse that protects the circuit. In this case it has to do with the "accessory fuse" circuit...and this "rogue source/circuit" might very well be the brake and turn signal circuit, as them not working was your first clue of a problem. You must identify the wire from this "accessory fuse" in the fuse panel following it outward and try to determine where the problem is or where it comes across the brake/taillight circuit...perhaps you pinched this/these wire[s] somewhere, the lighting is bad in your garage and you spliced the black wire with the magenta stripe to a black wire with a pink stripe [I just picked those colors out of my head, they are not referencing anything], you somehow have it connected to ground, or one circuit could be backfeeding another? I have come across many a situation where a circuit doesn't have proper ground [ie., lighting circuits due to corroded fixtures, etc.] and during it's search for ground the signal ends up powering another circuit or light. It's the oddest thing until you learn to recognize the signs.
I see that you cut off the wires from each connector right at the connector...was this to save wire length during reassembly? And butt connectors? I know they're easy to use but they offer absolutely no protection from moisture and are often the cause of failures down the road that are a real pain to identify and find.
IMHO you should have located the proper pin removal tool and removed each wire from each half of the connector[s] one set at a time so there will never be the chance of a mixup, reconnecting/soldering each and using shrink tubing to seal the connections ~OR~ cut the wires 2" from each end of the connectors and then with the proper wire, solder and shrink tube in wire extensions to make up the length required. It's always a great idea to leave enough wire left coming out of the connectors, because in case something goes wrong there will always be enough wire to reconnect. Ask me how I know this!
I am first and foremost a welder/fabricator but my second job involves cutting new/old trucks in half to either shorten or lengthen the chassis, move rear axles and undertake wheelbase changes, mounting truck bodies and undertaking a crapload of electrical installations and fixes. And every repair I do on wiring that involves any type of splicing gets the proper twist/solder/shrink tube routine, as there simply is no other method that will provide a better weatherproof and positive electrical connection outside of a weatherproof terminal/splice box.
My suggestion to you is to go over each and every connection again, making sure the colors of each wire are a perfect match [my old leadman was colorblind and had a bitch of a time when having to look through a bundle of 48 22g wires on a main Jap cabover truck harness to identify the one he was looking for] and hopefully you will find the problem. If not, as stated earlier, look for a pinched wire making ground. Then if you still can't find it you must locate the schematic for your bike and have someone who knows what they're looking at help you locate and identify each circuit until you find the culprit.
Oh, and if you know anybody with a Power Probe and knows how to use it, it is a great tool and will help locate the source of your issue.
Best wishes.
=8^)
Last edited by DrewBone; Dec 16, 2012 at 04:05 PM.



