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It says: "when you start your car engine then you are delivering considerably more than 12v of power. It is this additional power which can cause damage to the motorcycle"
really?
When my truck is running, the voltmeter reads 14.2 V
When my Sportster is running... it measures 14V +/- depending on RPM.
Sorry, the arguments presented hold no water. I'm pretty comfortable with the basics of electricity, and I've jumped vehicles many times without incident or resultant damage to either vehicle.
If you don't know what you're doing or are uncomfortable doing it then call Triple A to come help you out, you can use the money you would otherwise spend on a good pair of jumper cables, you'll be better off.
Sorry John, you may be comfortable with the basics of electricity, but your knowledge seems to ignore current (Amps) and assume that all voltage regulators work on the same modern, electronic switching principle.
Unlike most modern vehicles today which use electronic (switching) regulators, Harley still uses Shunt-to-ground type regulation. This means the 22 - 38 Amp (rated) regulator on a Sporty (depending on the year) will attempt to shunt to ground excess current (amps) that may be delivered from the 100 - 200 amp alternator in the jump vehicle.
The results of sinking 100+ amps through an electronic device that's rated for 30 amps and is tied to ground often winds up producing a bit of smoke. And I won't even get into things like in-rush current effects.
When you jump a Harley from a running vehicle, you're playing Craps with the bikes charging system.
Alright, so today I thought I would check these values again since I had some time to mess with it. Again, the values are about the same as I noted above. This time 12.58, 12.38, and like 8.5 and dropping during ignition.
As far as jump starting from a car battery, yes I did. Thinking back, this bike has been jump started from a car battery a few times...probably a half dozen. Am I in trouble for doing this?
Where to next?
My response is still the same as in post 9 above, that I don't see answered.
"Also, (assuming that you're attaching the positive jumper cable to the positive battery terminal and the negative jumper cable to a ground point on the motor/frame) you are bypassing only 2 parts, the battery and the negative battery cable.
If the bike starts off the jumpers, either the battery, the negative battery cable, or the negative battery cable connections (one at each end of the cable) has to be bad."
Wow....i posted an update before I went to bed last night and now see that this thread has become more about jump starting. Too funny.
Anyway, my next step is going to be swapping batteries with my other bike. Do I dare ask if this is ok to do?
If you're talking about swapping your Sporty battery with the King's battery, I think you'll have a bit of a "fit" issue.
Electrically, it will be fine.
If you're talking about swapping your Sporty battery with the King's battery, I think you'll have a bit of a "fit" issue.
Electrically, it will be fine.
Was not going to swap it for fit but rather to see if a good working battery gets it started. This will help me understand if it's the battery or something else.
Was not going to swap it for fit but rather to see if a good working battery gets it started. This will help me understand if it's the battery or something else.
I believe the King's battery is too big to fit into the Sporty battery compartment, so I think that leaves you connecting it with jumper cables which is something you've already done from another vehicle, right?
I believe the King's battery is too big to fit into the Sporty battery compartment, so I think that leaves you connecting it with jumper cables which is something you've already done from another vehicle, right?
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